50 hp dry shot

considering a 50 hp dry shot nos kit to my 07 ms3. i've talked to two dealers that have told me that the ms3 needs no timing or fuel adjustment for this low of a kit. since there doesn't seem to be any plug and play tunes currently available, maybe this might be the direction to go to get over the 300 hp mark. any insight on this? i'm all ears! thanks
 
just be safe...get all the safety stuff you can get there are others who know more about it then i but i would imagien a 50 shot in 3rd gear would be a hell of a ride...
 
Do it and let us know how much the repair bill is :D

But if you want to be safe, buy the scan tool on the GB thing and use it to moniter A/F ratio. Hell the 50 shot might be enough to lean things out a little and really make it perform.

Let usw know what happens.
 
justhavnfun said:
considering a 50 hp dry shot nos kit to my 07 ms3. i've talked to two dealers that have told me that the ms3 needs no timing or fuel adjustment for this low of a kit. since there doesn't seem to be any plug and play tunes currently available, maybe this might be the direction to go to get over the 300 hp mark. any insight on this? i'm all ears! thanks
What would this cost?
 
i think there is a much more practical way to get over the 300 HP mark than adding no2. I would think a cai, intercooler upgrade, catback would get you pretty close to 300 HP and be much more practical for driving on the roads
 
the cost is about $700. i'm wondering if the ecm would cut back boost,fuel,or timing during the no2 squirt. as far as the repair bill, i don't know about the rest of you but i have a warranty. you can bet if all goes bad, CSI wouldn't find a trace i installed a nos bottle. the dry shot is really easy to install and remove. anyone have any insight on what the ecm might do? thanks
 
i wouldn't personally consider anything shy of a wet system.

NOS do a pro fogger direct port system with adjustable nozzles - from something like 65 to 180 depending on how you adjust it.

MUUUUUCH safer than relying on pot luck to get your AFR right.
 
i am thinking of practicality also. nos is off for daily driving and on when you need it. cai is $300+ , catback exhaust $700+ intercooler upgrade $??? my dealer still has no idea when the exhaust and cai will be available. nos is available now. but yeh i get what you're saying. i'm just suprised no one's tried the 50 shot. it would actually be over the 300hp mark guarateed. installed in about 2-3 hours. if i'm trying something stupid here please educate me. there's definately smarter people than me on here.
 
i agree lordworm, the 2 speed shops i've talked to assure me that the 50 hp dry isn't enough to cause f/r damage. but i'm not convinced. the wet would require a little more install and harder to remove with out leaving evidence that a nos kit was installed.
 
yeh but dry is russian roulette dude.

on boost + NOS + leaning out to sh!t and boom...dead motor.

The way i look at it, do it properly the first time, jet it for a lower shot.

its cheap insurance when you think about it.

also, a wet or direct port system doesn't need to shoot before the MAF (whereas a dry would, otherwise the ecu wouldn't have a hope in hell of richening up the fuel mix) - because its pre-blended....
i dunno...heaps safter in my opinion...you'll kick yourself for not spending the extra coin when you blow the crap out of your motor!
 
yeh i don't care about the cost. even buying the wet i'm still ahead of the game instead of buying cat-back,cai, intercooler, ect.... believe me we're on the same page. i've always tried to do it right. if i can't afford to do it right, i just won't do it. if i blow up the engine, well that sucks for mazda. not me.
 
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justhavnfun said:
yeh i don't care about the cost. even buying the wet i'm still ahead of the game instead of buying cat-back,cai, intercooler, ect.... believe me we're on the same page. i've always tried to do it right. if i can't afford to i just won't do it. if i blow up the engine, well that sucks for mazda. not me.
if you blow up the engine and they get you for having NOS you might worry about it :p
 
a buddy of mine has a extreme tune on his ford turbo 350. produced so much boost it lifted the heads from the block and antifreeze mixed with his oil. he removed the tune and the dealer fixed his truck. they knew what he did but couldn't prove it.
 
look nothing is guaranteed with cars. you pay to play. if i install a nos kit i realize what might happen. i'm asking if anyone knows what the ecm might do. i know a wet is prefered and is safer but whats the point in installing the damn thing if the ecm starts shutting down boost, timing , or fuel.
 
Well from what I have seen so far a 50 shot would just about be perfect with how rich the MS3 runs. But the direct injection would really play hell with the EGT's. I would suggest clipping the exhaust wheel on the turbo if you are going to do this just so you can keep the EGT's in check. Other then that I will be running N2O as well with racing meth to keep the knock at bay. Our cars do have a knock sensor so if anything did start to go terribly wrong the ECU should pull timing due to the knock sensor readings and adjust for the N2O. I have also heard of a MS6 running a 150 shot on his car (other forum) an on the dyno they made over 440 WHP with it. There were other mods as well but that is a hell of a gain with just a shot, turbo back exhaust, TMIC, and intake. I also believe it had some sort of fuel managment as well but not 100% sure. Big easy power can be added to our cars and if used and installed correct it will make the car last just as long as if you were running without it.
 
justhavnfun said:
look nothing is guaranteed with cars. you pay to play. if i install a nos kit i realize what might happen. i'm asking if anyone knows what the ecm might do. i know a wet is prefered and is safer but whats the point in installing the damn thing if the ecm starts shutting down boost, timing , or fuel.
PAY to PLAY, that is what its all about. If you break it dont expect others to foot the bill.
 
Ok lets say you can somehow get mazda to pay for the engine explosion - wouldn't it still put you out? having the car in the shop for weeks while they investigate the cause, replace the motor etc?

I still reckon wet or direct injection is BY FAR the best way to go. Beauty of it is you pay once...then when you rebuild the motor down the track to be stronger, you can wind up the NOS shot... dry systems, i think about 75 shot is as far as you can go safely before you start running into all sorts of s***.

Wet system isn't going to matter to the ecu.... it may detect slight knock and back the timing out a bit (which is what you want it to do anyway), but standard ecu sees the air at hte MAF, applies the fuel it thinks you need, and the wet system supplies the blended N2O + fuel at the required blend. Hell if AFRs are an issue, jet the fogger such that it doesn't quite add enough fuel, this will lean out the entire range but still be safe.

Seriously, for the cash saved, its not worth the heartache.... do a wet system or don't do it at all....

but whatever you chose, should make for an awesome ride ;)
 
oh also, installing the nos kit on its own wont yield best results.

Think about it, you are adding more oxygen and fuel....that means a larger combustion and more exhaust gas. They don't call it chemical supercharging for nothing.

My point is, it will potentially increase engine heat, and will increase the need for an upgraded exhaust system. Not sure how far the stock system will flow to, but i doubt its going to flow fantastically with boost AND nos. I'd still be looking at a full turbo back exhaust system before going down this route.
 
ptperformance said:
PAY to PLAY, that is what its all about. If you break it dont expect others to foot the bill.


if you have nothing to contibute as far as USEFUL information please go lecture someone else. the dealer will not hesitate to screw you over if given the chance. a good example is the intake runner actuator. mazda knew what the problem was but they still make the customer bring the car in twice. once for them to knotch the actuator to preload it. then when that doesn't work. which is almost always. they have you bring it in and fix the damn thing right.
it's always about money with them not your satisfaction. i was going to cut and paste the many complaints about mazda screwing people over on warranty issues but whats the point you just want to be a ass. research it yourself. wish there was a smiley that would give this guy the finger! lol
 
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