The yellow P5 comes with a single stage paint meaning it's just a glossy base coat no, clear. It is very thin so be careful when polishing/compounding. We were going to clear coat mine and burned through the paint wet sanding with 1000 grit. Ended up having to repaint the whole car yellow then cleared it.
2002 Yellow Protege 5 , paint job below average?
- Thread starter mnkyboy
- Start date
I love my P5, so I dont know Paint Woes
The reason that the yellow color fades, and you get "yellow" on your applicator is due to the physical colorant itself used in manufacturing the paint, yellow oxide. The same occurs with red paint as well, with the iron oxide. These colorants, used in both red, and yellow paints are not very resilient to UV. They break down under UV over time and fail completely, thus giving you the "yellow" on your applicator when you are polishing the paint surface. The fact that the clear coat is actually mixed in with the paint also does not help, as it does not provide a physical barrier between your paint and the elements. Two stage paint jobs, ie: paint, and then clearcoat provide much greater protection but also cost more money for auto manufacturers to do, as it requires twice as many processes.
My P5 is white, and my fiance has a red 1992 Miata, and I use Mothers 3 steps (http://www.mothers.com/products/productcatalog/paintprod.html) on her car every few months and always get "red stuff" on my applicator. Phase 1: Pre Wax Cleaner - this step removes old wax, and oxidization(yellow or red stuff) from the paint surface as well as other contaminants. Phase 2 - Sealer and Glaze nurtures your paint is supposed to hide swirl marks, but we all know nothing totally does this. Phase 3 : Carnauba Wax - a non abrasive that will add the shine, and radiance back to the surface.
Meguiars also offers a similar system, and I have tried both and they are comparable. I always use Mothers because I find it is a bit easier to remove, but hey that could just be me.
Just my 2 cents!
The reason that the yellow color fades, and you get "yellow" on your applicator is due to the physical colorant itself used in manufacturing the paint, yellow oxide. The same occurs with red paint as well, with the iron oxide. These colorants, used in both red, and yellow paints are not very resilient to UV. They break down under UV over time and fail completely, thus giving you the "yellow" on your applicator when you are polishing the paint surface. The fact that the clear coat is actually mixed in with the paint also does not help, as it does not provide a physical barrier between your paint and the elements. Two stage paint jobs, ie: paint, and then clearcoat provide much greater protection but also cost more money for auto manufacturers to do, as it requires twice as many processes.
My P5 is white, and my fiance has a red 1992 Miata, and I use Mothers 3 steps (http://www.mothers.com/products/productcatalog/paintprod.html) on her car every few months and always get "red stuff" on my applicator. Phase 1: Pre Wax Cleaner - this step removes old wax, and oxidization(yellow or red stuff) from the paint surface as well as other contaminants. Phase 2 - Sealer and Glaze nurtures your paint is supposed to hide swirl marks, but we all know nothing totally does this. Phase 3 : Carnauba Wax - a non abrasive that will add the shine, and radiance back to the surface.
Meguiars also offers a similar system, and I have tried both and they are comparable. I always use Mothers because I find it is a bit easier to remove, but hey that could just be me.
Just my 2 cents!
Just a couple of thoughts.
1) Latest Mazda paint isn't the old-style volatile-based lacquer or enamel that was a better high than MJ or nose candy when you sucked it in; it's an environmentally friendly mix that has won "green" awards, but gotten a lot of middle fingers from owners.
2) Mazda paint, at least on the Pros, is very thin and prone to dulling over time unless kept up almost fanatically. This is true of solid colors such as yellow and red, as well as metallics and micas that are clear-coated. My '5 is silver with clearcoat and it still dulls if I don't stay on top of it.
This combination also contributes to easy chipping and grazing by foreign objects. Other surface defects in the paint such as scuff marks can usually be rubbed out with fine compound.
That said, I rate the newer Mazda finishes as 5 or 6 on a 10-point scale, definitely not up to the quality finishes of some other makes or the overall quality of the car. (rant)
1) Latest Mazda paint isn't the old-style volatile-based lacquer or enamel that was a better high than MJ or nose candy when you sucked it in; it's an environmentally friendly mix that has won "green" awards, but gotten a lot of middle fingers from owners.
2) Mazda paint, at least on the Pros, is very thin and prone to dulling over time unless kept up almost fanatically. This is true of solid colors such as yellow and red, as well as metallics and micas that are clear-coated. My '5 is silver with clearcoat and it still dulls if I don't stay on top of it.
This combination also contributes to easy chipping and grazing by foreign objects. Other surface defects in the paint such as scuff marks can usually be rubbed out with fine compound.
That said, I rate the newer Mazda finishes as 5 or 6 on a 10-point scale, definitely not up to the quality finishes of some other makes or the overall quality of the car. (rant)
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- All Mazdas!
Wow. sorry to hear this. The only things that have reduced the quality of my paint are a red honda that couldn't parallel park and an occasional gravel assault from my occasional trips.
I get a little bit of yellow when waxing but doing it regularly has kept it nice and glossy. I usually clay it 1-2X a year as well, keeps it " baby-bottom-smooth".
I get a little bit of yellow when waxing but doing it regularly has kept it nice and glossy. I usually clay it 1-2X a year as well, keeps it " baby-bottom-smooth".
