2 subs vs 1 sub

[aznativesilverp]

I have a 12w6v2 and a 500/5. I bench test the 500/5 at work and it was putting out 330 watts at 2 ohms. This sucker pounds like hell. I have had it in sealed and slot ported by far slot ported will knock your block off, Oh you are talking about 2 you will be satisfied if the right enclosure is built. Good Luck! (cool)

 

[ANDYMP3]

I ran 2 x 12 x-max PG for a few years and I loved them. I used to compete in sound offs. But if I had to do it all over again I would have used 3 x 10's instead. I guess it depends on what kind of music you like. Another factor is the box you are going to use. Sealed inclosure will give you a tighter base. This kind of box is good for Rock etc. If you like a sloppy base for instance, use a bandpass box or a ported inclosure. These boxes are good for rap or music with lots of base. Remember in a P5 you will here a lot more distortion that a car with a trunk so when you make your decision you should take some of these factors into consideration...

 

[got wake?]

well i think i've had most every combination of subs in the trunk of the protege that is possible froma single 8" sub to a trio of 15's to an 18" that had more linear movement than a W7 or XXX. my personal favorite is still the single brahma 10. i'm going to be installing that in my new truck, and it will be running at 4 ohm daily, off a DLS A6 amp, so it will only be fed a bit over 800 watts of true rms power. if i really feel the need to crank it, i can drop it down to 1 ohm and push nearly 2k watts to it, but that really isn't needed for daily driving.

 

[sndsgood]

if you build a ported enclosure right it wont' sound sloppy it can be just as accurate as a sealed box. box design is the most important factor in how good a sub will sound.

 

[Lil Freek]

i would most likely be somewhat lazy and port through a false floor - as porting through FG is a pain and 3/4.

i would just have to figure out the dimensions that i'd need to port 2 12w6v2's properly, in order to take up the back half the trunk.

the 2 choices i'm lulling over are to either make a box out of FG with the right dimensions, or to build another MDF box for the 2 subs, and make a FG pseudo-wall around that box. Both of which would be vented through a false floor.

 

[aznativesilverp]

If I were you and you have the extra 30 or 40 bucks. Build sealed and a slot ported enclosures. Toy with the subs a bit. Once you have figured out exactly what you like build your permanent enclosure. That is what I did with mine. I am building a sealed FG enclosure at 1.25. Tight and accurate. Believe me though the woofer still pounds hard as hell. However, slot ported pounds like hell but I can't spend the extra time and it would be tough building a longer port in a FG enclosure. It is your prefrence. Weather you use JL subs or Other subs toy with a few boxes. Building the right box I think is one key. The other is having correct amount of power for the sub or subs.
Good Luck (thumb)

 

[chuyler1]

With a ported box, you also don't need as much power to get the subs moving.

 

[Lil Freek]

or use the same power and get a nicer thump

i've gotta find that box designing prog 'got wake' sent to me like a year ago... i think it's somewhere on a backup CD somewhere (?!) but that should help at figuring out the dimensions i'll need. I'll still have to have room to put stuff in the trunk, so i don't really want it to chew up TOO much room.

Hmmm... seeing the manual... if i'm going to hook up 2 12w6v2's up in parralel, i'm going to have to find an amp that can tolerate 900-1000w rms @ 1ohm, correct? 4x4ohm = 2x2ohm = 1x1ohm?

 

[Poseur]

http://www.linearteam.org
WinISD pro is quite likely what you're looking for.

One thing that's nice to know isthat for a particular volume of a box, the tuning frequency is the same nomatter what speaker you've got in it, just some speakers respond differently to some tuning frequencies and volumes, etc. FOrtunately JL's will already be loaded in there...

What kind of false floor porting are you thinking? Personally my thought was to put a fiberglass blob in the corner like now and wrap a "U" shaped slot port around my spare tire kind of... Of cours eI'm WAY too lazy for that to have actually happeend, but someday it might still.

 

[Poseur]

oh, and as far as your impedance, you are correct, or you can wire paralell/series and get it at 4ohm.

 

[chuyler1]

http://www.linearteam.org
WinISD pro is quite likely what you're looking for.

One thing that's nice to know isthat for a particular volume of a box, the tuning frequency is the same nomatter what speaker you've got in it, just some speakers respond differently to some tuning frequencies and volumes, etc. FOrtunately JL's will already be loaded in there...

What kind of false floor porting are you thinking? Personally my thought was to put a fiberglass blob in the corner like now and wrap a "U" shaped slot port around my spare tire kind of... Of cours eI'm WAY too lazy for that to have actually happeend, but someday it might still.

The ports don't need to be that big. Most of the time they are around 12" long unless you are trying to tune it at some whacked out frequency...in which case the box will also have to be huge.

 

[Poseur]

The ports don't need to be that big. Most of the time they are around 12" long unless you are trying to tune it at some whacked out frequency...in which case the box will also have to be huge.

For a 1.7ft box, I'm looking at around 35" for 25hz with a 15sq" cross area. Lots of size, and low tuning. I HATE portnoise. I've yet to plot out in my hatch where exactly that'll leave me. But Hey 22hz is about 45" so anywhere in that range and I should be good. I'm also figuring this'll allow me the center area to use as a sunken amprack, and avoid "wasted" falsefloor since I may be running dual amps for my front stage thus necessitating moving my subamp to the hatch.

ahh, the ideas running around in my head...

 

[speedhawaii]

go with 2 subs imo