03 msp stall issue

duren03msp

Member
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2003 mazdaspeed protege
Ok guys so i've had some issues the past few days. Really starting to worry me just to drive it. To start out, on my way to work every morning i have to cross over a bumpy railroad track. Now i've never had an issue with this until a few days ago when the car stalled right as i went over the tracks at 35mph leaving me as a sitting duck going into a left turn. Immediately after i notice it stalled i start it back up during the turn and its as nothing is wrong, no cel either. Now just today i was at a stop light and as i start to move with traffic the car starts jerking forward and back, i push the clutch in and it stalls. I restart it and the rpm's stumble as its trying to stall. I pull off onto a side road and try starting from a stop again to recreate it but everything is normal. I'm at a loss right now...

Checked for stored/ pending codes after the first stall over the tracks and came up with p0900 - fuel pressure regulator control circuit , and p0660 - intake manifold tuning valve control circuit open. Both stored, not active codes.

Drivetrain mods - custom side mount intercooler, silicon hardpipes, welded differential, corksport cold air intake, corksport cat back exhaust, turbosmart wastegate, turbosmart fuel cut defender.

Small crack in stock turbo manifold also.
 
Sounds like a boost/vacuum leak or the battery is failing/loose terminals. Could even be an EGR sticking open although that normally throws a CEL. The P0660 is for the VICS solenoid and the P0090 is the fuel pressure solenoid both are located on top of the IM. FP solenoid has a brown dot on top and brown plug on the harness, VICS has a white dot/plug. If you have unplugged the sensors they may have thrown a code and be fine but they also are very common to fail over time. Personally I have a stockpile of used solenoids from the junkyard I pay about $2 a piece for that I use whenever a solenoid fails. I have only had to replace one so far.
 
ok but since no current active codes are popping up I wouldn't think they'd be causing any immediate issue otherwise my cel would come on. I am going to check the battery cables because I just got this car about a month ago from Pflugerville, tx and the previous owner wired in some other accessories to the battery cables hidden by electric tape. battery itself seems fine, starts up right away every morning. I don't really want to dig into the IM at the moment, planning on getting the protg garage single runner sometime anyways. think I should just replace the fuel pressure solenoid for the heck of it? or do you think the crack in the turbo mani could somehow be the culprit.
 
also to mention, while cruising in gear only at a steady speed the car will slightly shutter anywhere between 10-20 inhg vac. only happens in that range. mainly when in 5th gear. im thinking vac leak?
 
{update} i just went over the tracks on my way to work and once again it happened. This time had it in neutral and was coasting approx 30mph. Watched it stall but immediately after the tracks restarted on its own. Did not have it in gear. Only neutral. Did not turn the key or depress clutch. Ideas???
 
You have a vacuum leak. I had one similar. I could accelerate in first up to 3k and clutch in. Instant stall every single time. Check the vacuum lines to your solenoids mounted on the intake manifold. The ones with green and white plugs. I had a nipple break off on one.
 
but why would a vacuum leak only cause an issue while going over railroad tracks? with the exception of one time?
 
checked all vac lines on the solenoids. only one that was loose and that was coming off of the t connection used for my fuel cut defender but i ran the car and pulled that line off and couldnt hear any vacuum and nothing changed. not sure if there is supposed to be any vacuum through there until boost or not. it also connects to the solenoid type thing on the passenger side of engine bay by strut tower. solenoid has mitsubishi symbol on it. not sure what it is.
 
have you checked for loose contacts/fuses? Thats what it sounds like to me. Vibration would cause a break in conection.
 
ok now this is getting really frustrating... it didn't die over the tracks this morning but on my way to lunch I was at a stop light with a slight drivers front slope in the road. idle was a little rough but nothing out of the ordinary. immediately as I give some gas and slowly release the clutch I get about a foot and it stalls. I go to try to start it again and it turned over and turned over, about every couple seconds it would fire on a couple cylinders but wouldn't go past 200rpm. everytime I tried to give it gas it wouldn't change anything. I finally got it to fire and got across the intersection on the second light. so overall took me about a full minute to get it to actually fire to get across. ideas???
 
have you checked for loose contacts/fuses? Thats what it sounds like to me. Vibration would cause a break in conection.

this... Im with CHIQLES on this one, my car did the same thing a year ago... come to find out it was my main fuse popping in and out...
 
had this happen numerous times in the past, check your battery terminals, clean them if they are showing signs of corrosion and make sure the cables are tight. As far as jerking forward and back, make sure the clamps on your intercooler pipes are tight. I had one come loose on my car when I was stock and it jerked forward and back a lot. It didn't appear loose at all and it drove fine most of the time until I hit a bump or tried boosting and it would stall.
 
alright this is where were at. i finally checked my fuses and relays and turns out the two main relays and the a/c relay were loose the main relay actually was unclipped. pushed them in and lets hope its just that simple. i definately feel stupid for over thinking it.
 
so looks like that wasn't my problem. went for a drive over the tracks and again it stalled. checked to see it maybe the relay got knocked loose by the tracks but no it was tight. i pulled the green relay out and a few of the areas on the fuse block where the relay prongs insert into are bubbled burnt looking plastic and on the prongs is stuff that looks like peanut butter. anyone else seen this? or do i need a new block?
 
Glad to hear it was something simple. I wouldn't worry about the fuse block as long as it works. You may need to replace it if it has any future problems but don't worry unless you do. Is the car black? I remember seeing a listing for a black MSP in Plugerville.
 
yup thats the one. had it shipped to mn. but car is still acting up. strange. any other ideas would be great.
 
Did you address the cracked manifold? Also, how much boost are you running? If it's less than 11psi, I fail to see why you need a fuel cut defender.
 
Weird, my MSP just started stalling like this also, I also got the code p0660, did you ever replace the VICS Solenoid?? I'm thinking about doing it because I think that's what's wrong with my car because other then that it runs fine, please let me know if when you replaced the solenoid it stopped stalling...I work at a dealership and the price for that solenoid new is $98 hope it's just this simple thing
 
What dealer do you work at? I was a tech at Mazda South in Austin for a couple years. The VICS solenoids go out all the time, If you look around in the shop (if it is anything like my work) you will be able to find multiple of those solenoids just sitting around. I know I collected several and haven't had to buy any new ones. $100 is too much
 
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