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I've been chasing this code for 2 years now. I've replace exhaust manifold (cracked), hoses, checked for leaks with carb cleaner, replaced 02 sensor, EGR, wastegate actuator (long before this problem). No luck yet...

lol ya... it does give some semi useful info at WOT... I just keep it there to fill up my gauge cluster.

... when your narrow band thinks it's at a rave

You know you drive a MSP when coming to this forum is the only way to find the fix. You know you drive a MSP when it takes 6+ months to find the problem You know you drive a MSP when it's excluded from the extended 7 year warrenty on Protege EGR valves... You know you drive a MSP when you...

Old thread, but I think i have the answer, I had something simular. If i recall correctly the shock sensor sensitivity was too high, Adjust the sensitivy way down and see if that allows it to arm properly.

One of them would be me, I just moved here from Toronto a few months ago.

Sorry for the lenthy delay in replay, no I never did. I actually still have the problem which I just recently discovered again. It must have been in hiding recently. I just did a spring tuneup, while doign that I reset the ECU and it's showing up again. If you tore it down make sure that you...

Update again: Disconnected the Neutral Switch and the Computer stays in an Open Loop regardless of the gear or neutral, which seems normal from the other posts ive seen about people forgetting to connect it, which in turn causes high RPMS and poor idling. Hooked it back up and I get the same...

If your isnt connected, it should connect to a harness between the battery and the engine just below the charge pipe that goes to the TB. I disconnected mine today to try to troubleshoot my problem and it causes the computer to go into a Open Loop which puts your RPMs to go up, which is...

Update: I hooked the computer up to the car today, It looks like the Fuel System status is going from a Closed Loop (normal idle) to an Open Loop (Power enrichment) when the high idle is kicking in, almost like there is a load it's trying to compensate for, the weird thing is the "Calculated...

From the service manual I can see that there is a Neutral Switch Connector on the Manual Tranny, does anyone know where this leads to? (IE. to what is this switch signaling or actually triggering?) Thanks

good thought, but it is definetly something being triggered once the Neutral Switch sensor is triggered, I need to find out what that switch talks to.

Nothing new in the last year (this just started happening a week ago): but for interests sake here are the mods Injen Intake Relocated MAF BOV Hardpipes SMIC 3" Exhaust I've taken apart all the intercooler piping and inspected MAF, all seem to be in good condition, no vacuum or boost leaks that...

Yes, that's correct. Clutch "in" or "out" makes no difference in neutral, idle is normal.

Very weird problem. Car idles fine in neutral. With the clutch fully disengaged, putting the car into gear (any gear even reverse) will cause the IDLE to go up to about 1500-2000rpm and stay there, moving it back to neutral will cause it to go back down to 800rpm. Ingear: High idle Neutral...

WGA replacement did not fix my problem. The old Actuator did not let any air through but i replaced it anyways. I still get unstable boost at WOT, all the vacuum lines seem fine. Any suggestions? (BTW I have MAF relocation)

I believe so.

Blow test passed, couldnt blow anything in so there appears to be no leak. Waiting on new silicone lines to arrive. I'll change those (all vacuum lines) and if i still get the fluctuations i'm going to change actuator.

really? argh that sux, just off warranty too. U mean the Wastegate Actuator right (as in you link)? not the wastegate i hope.

I have a problem with maintaining a steady boost under WOT at max boost around 7psi. If Im under the max psi (before wastegate opens I am assuming) the boost is steady. Once I hit the max boost the boost starts fluctuating really fast about 1psi give or take. The needle on the boost gauge...