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Yes, no issue at all. Drops in to almost any G series Mazda gearbox.

Nope. They won't really give any performance benefit that is measurable either though. They do help some with engines that run a little rougher. I don't remember them being real expensive. So they are plenty safe in a NA (naturally aspirated) engine either way.

Forced Induction. Turbo or supercharged.

Sensor is from 4.3L V6 from 1991 generation Chevy S10 Blazer http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bck-158-0536/overview/ https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1060535,parttype,4748

Correct. I highly recommend you leave the IAC with the stock ECU. Ice88 is correct, the Microtech sucked at IAC control.

It is possible though that the stock ECU will not supply power (for example if it can't see the CAM sensor). So while using the stock wiring for the 12v supply on the injectors can work, and should in most cases, you may run into issues otherwise. You can use the stock coolant sensor, but it...

It's likely that it is just touching a new water temp cell on the map. Probably right on the threshold and when it jumps you get the stutter. Check for a smooth slope all the way through the highest ranges of the water temp fuel curve and it should help.

what amount of timing do you have going at idle for this? What size injectors? Are you tracking AFR?

It was a high temp/reliability type decision. The reduction in performance was/is minimal. Likely saved my ass once too because I had a coolant dump occur racing and had no coolant... engine survived without issue. That was pretty much the manufacturer recommendation as well.

bump!

Hey guys, Cleaning out my old mazda items I have hanging around. These are three stock FS-DE 2.0 cams. Good for doing a regrind or a build if you had damage. The solid tappet shims alone are worth a mint. Probably cost me 200+ for just the shims when I did my build originally. Make a...

Any questions or clarifications, drop a line in the thread and i'll try to reply. Have a good weekend guys!

I should mention too for those struggling with the accessory/alternator load things... I believe both of the pump functions also allow timing to be added. That adjustment is actually more useful than the fuel add on the pump function about half the time.

I updated the first several posts under my screen name at the start of the thread with all the instructions, maps, and supplements I could find. Have fun.

Sorry to hear about the block, that always sucks. BTDT. It's hard to know exactly what each person has going on in their configuration and what else they have done or not with the wiring. Roughly speaking, if the car wiring and ECU etc came from completely stock, once the crank signal is...

I'll have to dig up those files, all that stuff got archived last year. Probably have it around somewhere.

Curious that you guys are seeing the battery light etc... none of the cars we did, including my own, ever had that issue or any kind of glitches with the tach.

something goofy with the crank wiring then most likely. Is your tach working? Double check the fuse on the cigarette lighter as well.

Not sure what you guys are doing, but it's wrong. You shouldn't need any modification to the alternator or wiring if the Microtech is wired correctly. My instructions for wiring the Microtech are published out there somewhere now and the alternator works fine in that configuration. The stock...

Sorry, but that is just plain and simple incorrect. The alternators are able to support the system without issue and the little bit of juice it bumps out during a push start is typically sufficient. If you had absolutely ZERO battery it might be very difficult, but just requires more speed to...