Search results

Yeah it is a bit sad. Like I said, I'll hang onto the P5 awhile. And seven Mazdas may not have been enough. I've not had a Miata yet. I've not had a Ford since my first hand-me-down car. I'm not prejudiced against them and they used to do a lot of partnering with Mazda. I'll admit I drove...

Well 10 years now for me on a P5 with a quarter million miles and Illinois rust, I've found her replacement. A white 2015 Fiesta ST with 20K miles. I looked at a lot of used stuff and this one won out. Definitely in the spirit of a P5, plus no need to just ponder a turbo mod. Getting her...

Get it jacked up and check all underneath, especially the rear subframe. Plus under the hood. Doesn't look bad for a Wisconsin P5 and the body showing is fairly superficial rust. Rear subframe rust, which appears most often on the passenger side, can doom a P5 without extensive work.

Well I looked again and there's a thin trail from a V/C bolt down the edge of the timing cover behind the P/S pump. About 50% sure that's it. I'll go ahead and swap out the gasket and should know for sure in a few days. Also, I've never put the silicone on the 2 gasket corners and might do...

I've got an oil leak near the A/C compressor (not the compressor tho). I thought it was just the V/C gasket (which I need too) but when I studied it you can see it's relatively dry above the head gasket, and wet below. It's leaked maybe a few months - small leak. Car runs great, so...

yeah I also did that on my 96 626 2.0 - I think you could see what you were doing thru a gap in the intake mani, while you can't on the P5. I'm thinking maybe it was it being blind - plus a long reach - that I gave up.

yeah I had a regular 2001 Protege and that worked great. It sure looked tight on the P5 tho - never able to do it that way. Might have to look again.

Well most probably already know, but when I was rotating the tires I also wanted to do an oil change. I usually run it up and ramps (and hope I don't overshoot) or jack it all up and use a creeper. But dummy me I realize that with the wheel off you can reach up in the slot above the tie rod...

Hey which 2 are on the pin that requires machining? #3 or #16? Anyway, I ordered the 2 on the shifter base for 6 bucks delivered on eBay. I wasn't messing with anything else, so worked under the car. Had already bent the heat shield a bit for access, rather than unbolting it's rusted...

Well thanks guys. You were right again. I just got one coil to test it. First swap - no difference. Second one bingo. I'll order a second new one and carry the old good one as a spare and for testing. Check out the plugs too. Only 50K miles on the coils too. I even noticed the bad one...

I'd like to test the fuel pressure. I don't know the spec and I don't see where to hook one up. Somewhere I have a spare coil I can try too. MAF cleaned but wasn't it.

Injens been on there 150K miles. Again, the idle is fine. At WOT there's practically no intake manifold vacuum too, so that pretty much covers vacuum leaks. Autozone has the pump in stock for 35 bucks. I may do the filter body too since I'm due. It's one of my less favorite things to do...

I didn't see or hear any leaks. I'm leaning towards fuel pump. Any easy way to check the rail pressure, etc.?

New problem started in last couple days. Starts and idles down OK. Runs fine under very light load in all 5 gears. But get on it even a little, or go WOT, and it bucks constantly. Stock engine with 250K miles. No codes in ECU (yet). Much worse will be undrivable. Running Injen intake and...

I have found that keeping the level at full, I end up with more leakage from the bell housing than if I keep it lower. Basically I had spots on my floor that stopped when I went to like 1/4 over the add mark. (Tho the engine/tranny bottom was still always wet with oil) But this means really...

I'm thinking rear main seal. Mines been bad for years. You might try to keep the oil level at 1/2 or below and see if the leak diminishes. I'm still waiting for the clutch to wear out (or get oil polluted LOL) before fixing it.

Anybody got Mazda part numbers for the 2 bushings at the base of the shifter? The online Mazda parts places only show automatic transaxle. I can't find them on eBay or Amazon either.

Me too? I might want a picture of that frame rail. I'm thinking I may have the identical issue - same side - also on a good running P5. I've seen it and had dismissed it, but never got in there and probed it to see how crumbly it all is getting.

Well I got them on last weekend. Four hours but should have been 2. Used Autozone loaner compressors and did need them - about an inch of compression. Used KYB OEM type gas units. Old stuff including mounts seemed OK, tho I would have gotten entire drop-in units from Rock for not that much...

Oh OK, I understand now. yeah it seems odd from a seal wear perspective that they don't let the rod turn with the assembly. And I'm preparing to battle it for tightening the nuts. The do-or-not debate on using an impact gun is fierce. Gonna try the vice grips and manual tools first I think.