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oh i forgot to say... with the new turbo at 18psi (couldn't go further cause of fuel starvation with this turbo) i made 243.1kw atw... at only 5,000RPM (couldn't go further cause of bad AFR) new pump, surge tank etc and we'll lift the boost

yes that could be a very good analogy... the spring is only taking up slack so your mind starts thinking that "hey i'm not revving it 11K" but then when you start thinking about the fact that under 20 or more pounds of boost that first second and third gear are all blurs and that the revving...

most recent in the work power run was 228kw atw at 19.7psi lots more to come

i am interested.... very interested...

from what i know of forced induction and from everything i have heard from both representatives of IHI and Garret on most turbo's coolant lines are not necessary. The guys at IHI i know for sure say that i will prolong life a little bit bit simply because not for cooling, but because when you...

hey there everyone... i currently won't have an up to date dyno chart for another week but my early early turbo dyno was at 138.9kw atw and i know that bora's latest dyno was around 200.3kw at only 20psi so i'll have to wait and see what 32psi does...

i think you'll probably find that these "scratches" for you newbies, was probably just the mandrels marks from where the pipe was held while being bent....

it is solved... i explained the fix earlier... drill small hole in block, dowel and your done... its an utter c*nt because obviously its an engine out job to do it properly, (non-backyard mechanics) the thing i would like to know is where our tensioner came from... was it from the fs-de in...

i have this problem too... and now the pump i think has shat itself... half the time it works half the time it doesnt' makes alot more noise than usualy too.... it made my lean out at 5,500 so bad i killed a spark plug and smashed piston no 4... dents everywhere... i'm not getting to 30psi...

This is the australian rigoli WRX WRX's are the most seen-everywhere car out here... they're everywhere and you know why they are the fastest... with so many written off, blown and rooted WRX's around here makes parts easy as..... i have watched them blow a block at the track... they...

we decided to watch it very closely for now... but everyone i have spoken too agrees that the acceleration at big boost will create heaps more slack and the spring rate may not be good enough to pull it in quick enough

i need a spec 3... giving them a call now even if it is international... the ACT's just dont hold enough power

well i am running 675cc bosche injectors through a custom fuel rail, and they should be good for the 30-32psi we're planning on running. we have custom CV's on the way, still deciding on a decent LSD. We run haltech's over here as the build quality is excellent, the resolution on tuning is...

OR you could just use the dowel and save yourself 3 months of experimentation... the tensioner is adjustable once you have the dowel in... using the hex key you can spin the bearing to tension it... so it is still adjustale... just rock hard...

thats the other solution... but do you know anyone who makes a stronger spring...? cause i sure as hell dont... it would be impossible to even try until we knew the exact speck of the tension on the stock item...

the faster the accelleration the more tension being put on the spring... why do all skylines, 300zx's etc... sell upgraded cam belt tensioners.... all it takes is a loss of the tension for that split second and it all breaks loose... the spring is made for a set tension... i am not going to...

yep i totally agree with the above... you need to look into everything the second you starting playing with this much boost... especially cooling.... heat kills everything at 20psi

well to be blatantly obvious we are aiming around the 30psi mark to reach our goals here at the workshop on my car... the engine just went in after a full rebuild.... my first piece of info for the people looking to go there that wouldn't be found till the last moment is: Our timing belt...

ok everyone well the engine is back together with the main studs sitting in there nicely... sadly as for time reasons the engine had to go back toegether with haste meaning new stock items took up the role of head studs for the next 2 weeks until the ARP replacement items arrive.... no biggy no...

before everyone freaks.... the 10mm will work... as the thread is the same and the reason for the enlarged thread on the stock unit is as i said the fact that they stock head bolts are made with rolling dyes....... hope this helps