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Are the brake calipers with brackets for the front or rear?

There is a Mazda dealership here. They do not have the bracket bolts on hand... and are $4 a piece. Which is fine by me, but they have to be ordered and would take a week to get here. I am not sure a new bolt would do the trick anyway. I replaced the bolt that was in there with a new one...

I really just need the right rear brake caliper bracket and bolts... any chance I could talk you out of those?

The bolt is GONE... it somehow worked its way out and fell off. Rather than put a replacement bolt in, I am thinking I might just have to replace the caliper bracket. Most of the brackets I have found online say for naturally aspirated only. I am not about to go to mazda and buy one for $100...

I have the ZXE bulbs. They are pretty bright, and honestly the best I have found without going to an HID kit or upgrading the wiring harness to accept a 90/100 watt bulb.

The rotors and pads have just been replaced in the front and rear. I had an issue with one of the bolts on the right rear caliper, and we got another bolt to put into the hole that fit and felt tightened. That bolt is long gone. The two bolts that hold the bracket to the wheel assembly are...

turns out that one of the tubes that connected the boost system was loose, and one was disconnected. I checked all that I could see and feel, but apparently I missed those. everything else they said was good. i should have my car back in less than a couple hours.

ohm meter tests with resistance on the wires coming from the harness... no resistance, sometimes a slight spike from the sensor itself.

i am going to test it with an ohm meter and see what it says. trying to avoid the dealership like the plague since they want $100 just to diagnose the problem.

when the MAF is disconnected, the car idles just fine. could that be the issue?

I bought new rear sway bar bushings, greased them, and the problem went away. How old are the current bushings? They may need replaced, and aren't that expensive to do. Doesn't take much time to do them either, just need to jack up the rear of the car. I would also recommend getting the bolts...

never!

I haven't checked it yet, was actually just reading about cleaning it, and might try that tomorrow. I am trying not to spend too much on the car, i've got a baby coming in december that I need to save money for. I have over 91k miles on it. Same parts aside from the rear bushings, spark plugs...

if the pipe was leaking, then it wouldn't have been fine before the battery... i'm just stumped. i'm going to sleep on it tonight, and mess with it in the morning.

the battery was the right one, and it was working fine before i disconnected it to test everything. as for the driving part... I'd be lucky to get about 2 blocks or less from my house without the car sputtering and giving in. I have started the car and let it run as long as it will... which is...

I recently had an issue with the battery terminal on the car, took the battery out to get it tested, put it back in that night... and the car hasn't come out of limp mode since. I have tried to reset the ECU and that hasn't worked, when started, the idle is very rough, stalls and dies, I drove...

26, had mine for 3 years

For a little while now, I've been having the issue of the rpms going up say 1-2k when accelerating (not all the time) either when I'm barely on the gas or at full WOT. The car seems like it's slipping at first but then it grabs and goes. Clutch issue? I'm confused and I want to get it fixed...

how long have the headlight bulbs been in there? try replacing those, sometimes that can be the issue.

I have the PIAA bulbs in the car now, and they are bright as hell. I had a conversion harness from the honda for our bulbs that made them able to use higher wattage bulbs, and I was using 80/100 watt bulbs I bought from a shop here in town, those were in for about a year and a half, they burnt...