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The easiest way we did it in the shop was to simply pop off end of the endlink off the ball with the BIG pry bar.. if the plastic part stayed on the ball end, smack that with a mallet and it splits. Put a vice grip on the ball end and hit the nut with an air wrench or breaker bar. Literally 1...

And if they DO start squealing again even after retightening them, you should check all of your accessory pullies to see if something is binding up.

Yo dudes. Here's my problem. I noticed a little while after installing my stiff motormounts that there was a hell of a rattle when at idle, especailly reverse. I narrowed it down to the hood latch; the hood side of it was rattling inside of the latch mechanism, up and down. I also noticed on...

SV is the way to go. sv-portal.com for all of your sv1000 needs.

Those GM 3800 series V6 are nothing to sneeze at. They'll last forever and a day, and make some power to boot. The 3.4 DOHC in my Lumina was pretty quick. It just had a really weird timing belt setup and that 4T60E transmission was a total POS. I always loved the way the body looked on those...

Dang dude. How the hell do you keep managing to get cars on that terrible credit? 3 repos, im surprised they lend you a dime.

Mine's always sucked. IT sucks extra bad in this part of the country (Tucson). Stupid black interior.

before the P5... 91 civic DX Sedan (Engine died. POS. 4 cyl civs are slow enough, imagine a 3 cyl!) 91 Lumina Z34 (was actually a pretty nice car... still regret selling it) 88 RX-7 TII (Sold. Regret that) 87 Toyota PU (Bought for $100, sold for $700. Awesome little truck... if i could fit in...

Have any of who who currently or previously owned RX-7's noticed that the inside of your P5 is starting to smell very... 7ey? I have been noticing over the past few days every time I get into my car the smell brings up memories of my old GXL and TII. Mayhaps it's a Mazda thing?

Exactly. The only parts of my yellow car that are still shiny are the spoiler (where the clear isn't peeling), the door jambs, and the left side of my car because it hasn't had as much sun expose on that side. And even the left side isn't as shiny as the spoiler, which looks the same as the door...

Im pretty sure that a couple of the plastic pieces, like the spoiler DO have a clearcoat that peels off, while most of the rest of the car is the single-base that fades. I hate this stupid color.

Well I put in the OBX header a couple months back, and did the non fouler trick.. and now im getting a CEL. I'll have to rune to the 'zone to check what codes it is, but you guys think it would just be better to switch my 150k mile rear O2 sensor out for a generic if it's throwing codes?

Nice. I wish i had a non-yellow P5.

So I installed a front MM, and had CS inserts for the rear. I figured out a way of doing rear inserts that's potentially a lot easier than going from the top. 1. Simply get under the car, break loose the the nut that goes on the throughbolt. Jack up the engine to take the stress off the bolt...

Sounds like RX-7's :P

Little tip on swar bar links/ endlinks. The easiest way to get them off is to get a prybar behind them and give it a swift and strong push, and that will usually pop them off of the plastic. Then whack the plastic piece with a hammer and it will split and then all you have to do is put a vice...

You mean the splined end of the axle?

The hub bearing will need to be pressed out.

Bah. I remember the recommended oil change interval on my old 91 civic was 7500 miles. I use synthetic now in the P5 and don't change until 10k or 12.5 k miles. Have been doing this since new and its still running strong at 145k. edit: And don't forget, the companies that make this stuff want...

And don't forget you can also adjust the parking brakes at the rear calipers to.