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Haven't really had time to get together with my baby these past three months. Had the transmission rebuilt and just didn't have the time to pick it up... too much work. Took it home the other day and it was running like crap at idle, though pulling hard elsewise. Even got some backfire getting...

Seriously... does anybody know?

I've got a busted 3rd gear synchro (finally, after 50,000 kilometers of grinding), and instead of cracking apart the gears, I'm thinking of just buying a 626 box and transferring the entire assembly over and using the stock final drive... any reason why this wouldn't work?

Again, a big thanks to Ken for shipping this stuff over to us. Yeah, I know, I know... I was told they wouldn't work. And big surprise... they didn't! The whole problem is this: The adjustment bolts are almost completely in-line with the steel bolts used for cam position sensor reference...

Had a chance to put the car up on the dyno the other day and finish off our LPG (propane) conversion. I've got a sequential gas injection kit installed with a 36 liter tank where the spare used to be. The kit is computer-controlled, and is run by a pretty basic air-fuel computer that intercepts...

"140 hp" FSDE here... Been futzing around with this problem for quite a while... car starts overheating at odd times. Apparently, my car starts running ultra-lean then starts to overheat. So... checked EGR. Ok. Checked MAF... apparently okay. Checked Unichip. Okay. Removed unichip... problem...

Integral Stage II Cams Port and Polish with valve-job and combustion chamber matching K&N filter, stainless tubing Liang-Fei headers, modified 2.5" flex-tube end 2.5" exhaust, 2.375" resonator (must get that fixed) 2.5" muffler Unichip Programmable Piggyback 148.7 whp peak. It's a Dastek...

We've finally got the head in and the car on the dyno... but we're still butting our heads against the same wall I've been up against for months. The car is at an estimated 170 bhp (dynos in the same range as a 20V blacktop with minor mods and an SR20DE with the full kit) right now, and no...

I've lost some top-end power with my current exhaust set-up, and we can't seem to make it back through tuning or exhaust tweaking. I think I've reached the point where the restrictive head and intake are just choking us... numbers are just oscillating between 136 and 139 whp (DASTEK... maybe...

It's just sort of an experiment I thought I'd try... I'm having cam gears either fabricated or delivered (if I can get a hold of KasmanK). I already know that my FSDE is supposed to have identical camshafts to the FSZE (except for the exhaust cam from the last edition FSZE)... something I'm...

Here's the biggie... I'm only making about 130-140 to the wheels (my next dyno schedule is this weekend... I'm hoping to put 135-140 down on the 'jet... I already do over 140 on the Dastek...), but my clutch hates me for it. I've got a brand new Exedy replacement, and it just faded on the track...

Hot at idle... exhaust cam off a tooth... (do belts jump over kerbs?) Okay... so I've eliminated EGR and PCV as reasons for this, and my motor seems to be running a little lean at low rpms, but within normal limits... After a hot run on the track (about ten to twelve minutes), the car is...

Liang Fei 626 headers adapted to the Protege: The primaries are really long... they end up at the bottom of the block. The secondaries end where the thunder headers end... and the downpipe ends maybe six to eight inches further down. We had to cut out some pipe to make it fit, but we didn't...

Got 1-2% for cylinder 1, 5% and under for the rest. Was worried because I was eating about a quart every 5000 kms... I guess all of that was from driving hard. Going to have all fittings rechecked... found out my fuel pressure regulator was unplugged... d'oh! (eyeballs) We're going to...

Will these actually fit? I know I'm going to probably have to do some work at the back end to get them to fit under the car, but will the bolt-holes and the part that goes under the oil pan fit? (probably a mirror image, and no, I'm not going to use the EGR anywa)

We've finally finished wiring it up. This is the new "universal" Unichip. We couldn't get a plug-and-play harness for it, so we played it by ear. Results are promising, so far, but will know for certain when we re-dyno later this week. Dyno here...

Mods: K&N airfilter Custom in-bay "cold box" from Speedlab with cold-air intake tube Stainless intake tubing (stock MAF body) Thunder headers (these are going to go after we confirm tuning stability with the next dyno) 2.375" pre-resonator pipe - mandrel bent aluminized 2.375" resonator 2.5"...

Just throwing a wild question out here... Am currently getting the current-generation "universal" Unichip installed on my OBDI car... we've finally got her to idle with the intercepts, and we've got decent control of the fuel maps. With fuel maps alone, we're getting about 3-5 whp up and down...

Okay... there are tons of topics here on drag-racing, but not many focus on launch technique. I've found a few posts here and there, but I need to know more: Here's the Qs 1. What launch rpm is optimum for an FSDE on high-perfomance street tires? I launch at 3500 to 4000 rpm... but I still get...

This is for a Japanese-spec FSDE from a Ford Lynx, rated at 142 bhp, but with a different box from the US-spec MP3. I've dynoed it just twice now... once in October, with no mods but a K&N filter head, cat-delete and Thunder Headers, and now with a full system Note: this is photochopped to...