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well, you did ask for advice - and you didn't provide any information about what your build was. I assumed you were referring to a stock block max RPM. If you work the s*** out of the engine, the sky is the limit really. Most of us tend to top out at around 7200rpm anything else requires extreme...

the valve train isn't the bit to be concerned about. The appalling rod ratio and resulting piston acceleration numbers are. 7000 would be a good, relatively 'safe' number. much higher than that and you're going to need some pretty extensive headwork and big cams to take advantage of it anyway.

InstallShield had his up around 8700 - with a lot of bespoke parts (NA build) My softcut is set at 7000rpm with hard cut at 7200...been that way for 4 years with no ill effects (also NA - routinely taken to this engine speed, completely stock bottom end) a few things to consider: 1) piston...

The nature of the VICS based manifolds are that they are lossy - flow bench numbers on the DE intake manifold show this. I cannot for the life of me think 'how' the ZE manifold gets around this. Better than the DE? sure. But it still looks s*** to me. Of course I'm willing to be proven wrong...

if the budget can stretch it, you've got the motor open and you wouldn't be far away from "go considerably faster" parts. Longer rods and high comp pistons, and a cheap after market ecu..then the other bits. But if you've already got the internals...then go for it. It should be a straight part...

yes make a build thread :P we like pics and engine porn :)

honestly that NA 'station wagon' is never going to compete with the cars you mentioned...certainly not in a straight line. If it is supreme speed you want then you unfortunately have to go turbo... Even a pretty extreme 200hp FS is not going to be earth shatteringly fast.. It'll be quick, and...

Bit more timing, bit more fuel on the cold maps... I run quite rich on cold start. Problem is with big cams it still likes to stall out until the car is warm - not a great deal I can do about it it seems. I've cracked the throttle blade open slightly because the brass screw wasn't enough to it...

that and the 20B will give you more than enough power for a road car. You're not building a race car. Even as a race motor the 20B is crazy...

Plus it would break the purity of the thing :) the 4 rotors which are found around the traps are usually frankenstiens with custom escentric shafts to make them work (effectively joining 2 13b's together).. the "genuine article" is not something you'll find. There is plenty of potential in the...

So we had Jamboree recently. The biggest sport compact event in the southern hemisphere (perhaps even the world?) - 2 days of piston vs rotor. Overshadowing the mighty 20B was the 2J power, breaking (apparently, I wasn't actually there) into the 6.20s happened for the ex titan celica. Which is...

Don't know of anyone specifically, but microtechs are used in drag cars running 100% methanol (ok, so its not 85% *ethanol* but the principle is more or less the same). Its just a computer which controls your fuel injectors - tell them to pulse the injectors enough and it'll work fine on just...

A CAUTION: i cannot guarentee that if they fabricate it exactly as per the diagrams that it will magically fit first time. There are going to need to be stubtle adjustments in order to get it to fit nicely. The design was made by taking a basic bounding box around the front and underside of the...

Air temp sensor would be the first port of call - you need to put more fuel in when the air temp is low so modify your air correction maps. For a smooth idle I run mine quite rich and ply the idle maps with a crap tonne of timing to promote stronger vac signals.

have people been posting dynos?... :P Also did you ever start the "second" build?

its doable on a wet system (the jetting takes care of the extra fuel for you), but I'd still not recommend it. I'd hazard a guess he's using meth injection in place of timing reduction....but having absolute timing control would be safer I'd think

pretty much...though technically you don't need fuel control with a wet system (why you'd go with a dry system is beyond me)....timing control is more critical. Nitrous is cheap thrills, and remarkably easy to setup... but the cost of recharging the bottle every time you want to play is ridiculous.

his rods were aluminium..and my numbers are out... 1.65 is about as far as it can be pushed, going through old emails ... and it was compromising alot of things to get it to work (wildly short piston skirts, extremely high wrist pins, relatively narrow wrist pins to get the centerline as high up...

by off the shelf, i mean, available rods - not specifically for the FSDE you find a rod which will fit from another motor with no/minimal modification and go with that. 3SGE rods, for example some rods from some honda motors SR20 long rod kits etc. those are the usual suspects. whats it...

necro! Haltech is compatable with it. Just get a wet system and wire an input to back out timing. Easy. Subbing to dead threads isn't really productive - if you have specific questions, start something new.