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If it is related to temperature - and thus a signal is sent to not boost - perhaps there's a way to interrupt the signal and thus not dump the boost? I'm still in warranty, so I wouldn't do that now - but perhaps there's something in the service manual related to turbo - and you could figure...

jcmac, keep us updated on what you eventually do (or have done by the dealer) to erradicate this noise. I'm still convinced there's a pretty easy DIY that could solve this - once it's clear how one is done! Hopefully yours can be the one that shows us what is done!

chico, the noise I'm hearing is not a clunk. It's a noise similar to pinging (detonation) before cars had knock sensors. It's lighter in sound than pinging, but similar in sound. It actually goes away around the speed you mentioned as I'm decelerating - presumably because the engine isn't...

I can't "not hear" it - and it's worse this time of year. For me, it seems that dry and cool/cold conditions make it worse. It's enough that I'm going to really try to figure it out - but not when it's a high of 27 for the day and winds blowing about 20mph! So, will wait for summer - and then...

It was 38 degrees and spitting snow/rain. I wonder if humidity also plays into it.

Good point about younger person. I'll give the dealership credit, the master tech grabbed a younger tech because his hearing was better. I'm 60 - so likely older than the master tech (35 years at the job) and I could hear it - but only because I knew what to listen for. But it was hard to...

I went to the dealer today. For whatever reason, the noise was mostly not present. It was even tough for me to hear it - and I know what to listen for. Not sure if it related to the cold temps overnight. I could barely hear it when stopped - and even when I heard it, it was faint and then...

I heard back from my local dealer. Mazda corporate called them and I now have an appointment for next Tuesday. Even still, the voicemail from the service person at the dealership is still cautioning that "we may not be able to do anything about this sound. " If I ran a service department...

Well, after getting back from my trip, I got a chance to chat with my local service rep. Although her email indicated interest, when I inquired further on next steps - she said my noise was already diagnosed and was determined to be 'normal'. Stated that she couldn't proceed to Mazda when the...

I got busy yesterday, so was unable to get this scheduled. The response from my dealer suggested comparing my sound to that of one on their lot. If they were the same, it's considered 'normal'. They would then have to work with Mazda for further directions. A TSB would be the ideal situation...

I haven't had this done yet - this was found on another forum. I hope to have it done early next week per my dealer. I'll keep you posted.

I just found this on another forum - thought others might be interested in getting their noise fixed!! Just got my 2020 CX-5 Signature fixed! After 27 days without my vehicle they found that it is the 'high pressure fuel line bracket'. They removed the fuel line bracket, installed insulation to...

See my post about "safety features" that aren't safe. I too missed the fact that I only had on DRLs. While there is an indicator on the dash about the lights, it's not obvious IMO. It is on for both full on and parking lights only. Leaving in AUTO position is a good option - as long as other...

I'm not a fan of mandated standards with respect to layout, etc. In fact, the mandate of DRLs is what prompted me to initiate this thread. As I stated in the subject line, this mandate under the guise of safety has created an unsafe condition. Don't get me wrong, I think DRLs do increase...

Sounds like others too have noticed this behavior and recognize its dangers. Modern safety systems should make things safer - and in certain deployments, DRLs have actually made things more dangerous. Yes, checking the headlight stalk is the right thing to do - and I typically do - but...

A pet peeve of mine is to be driving at night only to come up on a person that doesn't have their lights on. And, I'm sure it's because they believe they have their lights on - when in fact the lighting they are seeing is that cast by their DRLs. They have no clue that the rear of the car is...

davmac, no doubt the internet has helped increase paranoia! Would that I could - with respect to field work. Alas, the wheels are about 800 miles away from me. To your point, the fact that a legit company says their wheel of same size (17x7.5 ET50) will fit - GREATLY increases confidence...

Information from Tire Rack does say that a 17x7.5" rim should fit; their website suggests a couple of rims that are 17x7.5 +50mm offset - and that builds confidence that I should be ok if I purchase the rims (from a private party...so no returns!). It's the triangular strut gusset that is the...

davmac, I'd agree without hesitation except for one issue. I've climbed under the car. At the front,, the strut has a triangular shaped gusset - which flares towards the hub the closer you get to the bottom. So, with a 17" rim running lower against the strut than an 18", it is closer to the...

I have used both calculators - and they are great for determining tire size based on rim size. But the real concern relates to backspacing and the room around brake and suspension components. The increased offset and the wider wheel put things 11.4 mm (about 1/2 inch) closer to those...