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I did a little hunting this weekend and still could not positively locate those pesky relays. I removed the glovebox and anything else I could to be able to get at everything and repeatedly fired the door locks so I could locate them. The clicks seem to come from inside the fuse panel unit...

My door locks have recently started "acting up" where they occasionally won't lock and/or unlock via remote or using the door switches. When I try, I do hear a clicking coming from somewhere in the passenger foot area, so the relays are working - the locks just don't function. And then, they...

yeah, I know I gotta do some research on my own at some point, but if someone with a similar problem has already addressed the issue, why reinvent the wheel? :) Bagging is probably the best alternative, but the shops around here (Des Moines, IA) don't seem too interested in doing something like...

Just curious if there are any updates since the last posting. Problem with the rear end still present. I had to remove the stereo equipment to reduce the weight, and that's not a good option.

It's been a long while since the last entry in this thread, but I wanted to post an update, and yet another question. After running with the rubber spacer for a while now (over 2 years), it seems I need new springs in the rear. The spacers aren't keeping the back end from bottoming out anymore...

That's exactly how mine sounds! Thank you!! That recording sounds a bit worse than mine though. I just get one "tink" on takeoff, yours seems to go "tink tink tink"... Hmm, so it's the brake pad mounts, eh? Might take it in and have them look at it anyway. It's probably time for new brakes...

Nope, it's not that. Fan on/off or speed doesn't matter, and it's definitely something that happens only on take-off.

Since it happens when I am moving, it's hard to locate it, but it kinda sounds like it's coming from the front. Of course, this doesn't narrow it down much since 90% of the mechanical stuff is there...

From what I can see, the mount looks ok, although I'm no expert. And the noise is definitely not a clunk, just a small "tink" noise...

Like the title says, I have an '05 Mazda 3 with manual transmission. 44k miles, but has been doing this for the last 5k miles. I am getting a small metallic clink or "tink" sound coming from somewhere outside the car. It's a higher pitch clink - kinda like the sound you'd get if you were to...

Wow, a little more than a year before this thread was revived! This should be labeled "The thread that never dies"...

PM sent...

I have a 6-disc stock unit from '05 that I don't need.

Before you assume it's blown, pull off the door panel and see if there is something on the front or back of the speaker (debris of some type) that may be hitting the cone as it moves. A blown speaker can be determined by one or more of the following: - Can sound scratchy from a warped voice...

Do you have the LOC wired right (+ to + and - to -)? Sounds almost like you have some signal canceling. In my car, one 12" sub running on ~400w makes both side mirrors vibrate badly and the rearview mirror actually "self adjusts" from the vibration.

Personally, I don't mind ethanol as long as it won't cause a shortened lifespan. The car feels peppier with it than normal gas. Plus, being in Iowa, Ethanol based gas is actually the cheapest fuel (since it's made from corn). BTW: The following is a decent source of information for ethanol...

A typical LED draws between 15-30mA (0.015 to 0.03 amps) of current, depending on the color and brightness. Over 9 hours, thats 270mAh. A car battery has a much higher capacity. However, over time, this steady drain can cause drainage. It's hard to know why the map light would stay dimly lit...

(lol)

That sounds like variable loudness. Loudness buttons usually boost the bass and treble at low volumes so it will sound "better", but lessen the effect as the volume is turned up. Human hearing tends to be more sensitive to midrange at low levels, so it helps even things out a little (supposedly...

I don't have the wiring chart in front of me, but maybe the tach signal used for remote starters might work? That would be the RPM sensor. I had found the chart online somewhere, maybe a Google search should find it. If not, I'll post it when I get home if I remember. I don't know about the...