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Yeah, its a little weird. I'm trying to remember my thought process. I think it just clamps 2 sides and grabs 2 corners at the slit. Kinda like this. I think I was trying to limit the press force and probably leave room for glue. Ended up snapping on easily and not needing glue.

looks like I posted a picture years back: What have you done to your CX-5 today?

No, not a tool. I made one for each screw and pressed it on. It's an interference fit with crush ribs, so its on there good. If you look closely in the 2nd picture you can see the ribs. You can see that the part is slit down the middle so it will spread open a little when its pushed on. So...

Actually, I looked for replacement screws but wound up 3D printing some press fit on wings to the existing screws. If I did again I'd use lowercase and a different font for the emboss :). They've worked without issue for almost 5 years.

I do it in the garage where I normally park. I have a Fumoto valve and I don't use ramps or jack. The oil goes in a polypropylene milk jug and is set out with the recycling. Oil and filter together is about $30 bought when the price is good and stored in the garage. I put wing heads on the 2...

One of the 4 or 5 times I visited the Mazda dealer with my 2018 CX-5, I can't remember what the visit was for but not an oil service, they told me that the oil level was too high and they removed some. Days later I got an oil light on my dash. I checked the oil level and it was low. I filled...

I'm not sure you can judge whether they were properly torqued by how clean the threads look. They seal on the captured crush washers, not the threads.

That's plausible. Perhaps I'm forming my impression from occasions when not coming to a complete stop before accelerating.

It's not because the battery is new. I believe its because it spent time without power and reset.

After I changed my battery my acceleration off the line was more responsive. It gradually got worse again over the following year I think. I believe it adapts to your behavior and if you normally accelerated slowly it will start in a higher gear, then lose time if you have to downshift. I...

Yeah, me too. Same benefits plus can still be safety device for rear passengers.

If that's true, its likely that Mazda originally designed the rear brake sizing so that they roughly lasted as long as the fronts. Then in successive iterations, changed the tuning for other reasons like dynamics, handling, safety, etc that wound up relying more heavily on the rears. But...

On the 3rd attempt spanning a couple of years, I finally got my local Discount Tire call and find the Dimax AS-8, but they want to charge $138 plus $25 shipping for each to special order when Walmart has them for $104 and they won't price match :( I'm not paying $200+ more for the convenience...

This is a good point that immediately came to mind. Many people misread the rating for these cars. The limit is 2000 lbs with brakes, 1000 lbs without brakes for the US non-turbo models.

Funny, I read this thread, and even posted in it before. Today I opened it based on the title thinking it would be about some type of retaining ring that fell in during disassembly. Like the ring was meant to maintain engagement between two parts.

That was Sunday, it must be out by now. Let's see it.

I know many people have the experience and skill to torque nuts by hand. I'm not trying to tell you that you shouldn't, and like I said, you may be compensating for the the lower torque requirement with lubricated threads. There's plenty of debate, and some data, about the pros and cons...