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Yep, my 87 Corolla had the screen type. I dropped the pan once expecting to change a filter, saw the screen and just put the pan back on. That transmission lasted me over 300,000 miles with only having to replace a governor at about 189,000 miles. I used to replace the fluid every couple of years.

Definition of "lifetime" and:

My 97 Voyager had RTV sealing the trans pan which was a pain to scrape and reseal every time I did a fluid change (no drain plug). I found one of those metal gaskets with the silicone inlay and it was great. Multiple times of changing fluid with no scraping. If anyone knows of one available...

Dirty or clogged fuel injectors will also give you those codes. Try a few tanks with Techron fuel injector cleaner.

2015 to 2016 has my vote, bullet proof engines, transmissions, etc. 2016 year introduced the EPB which might have been problematic at first, mine was.

A point to remember, OBD don't always point to the problem directly, sometimes you're just in the general vicinity. Glad your problem got resolved.

New rotors always go on with new pads for me. Modern rotors are made lighter than they were years ago. True, they have a minimum thickness spec, and usually the guy cutting the rotor will most likely always unnecessarily cut to minimum thickness whether they need to or not.

exactly what's happening to mine.

You mean the same design from 2018 head is currently on the present NA engine, and will most likely be on the 2026 models?

Just catching up on this, had no idea this went out to 2023 model year now according to the latest service alert courtesy of txt990.. Now the techs have to measure and reuse old head bolts. "Head bolts must be measured and re-used if within the specification in MGSS" One only hopes they're...

No, but people mentioned the same thing I was seeing, leaking plus metal chips inside as a dealer service manager described it. I didn't even know this thread existed. I won't use them, just as I used to be a diehard Purolator fan years ago until 1 or 2 leaked on me, won't use those either...

You didn't look hard enough, here's one... https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mazda-filter.391126/

Yes, did all that, was properly installed the way I've been doing for over 40 years including at the dealership and small garages where I worked. Seemed to be leaking out of the stamping by the inlet holes. They don't have to be common, one or two is all it takes for me to not use them. I NEVER...

A few people including me, have had bad experiences with these. I've had 2 of them leak. When I go to the dealership and ask for the ones made in Thailand, the comment usually is "oh, you want the good ones"...good enough for me.

My 2016 averaged 37 mpg highway on a 3 hour trip to the beach a few years ago, happened on a set of new Nokian tires, never go that kind of mileage before those tires.

I like it. As long as there's no CDA I'm game. That red is just outstanding...

There's actually about a 138 pound difference between the 2. I've had a 2014 fwd and now my 2016 awd, gas mileage is pretty much about the same. Difference in tires does make a difference.

I'm reminded of this post years ago by member OVT about the plugs having a function as a sensor also. You might want to keep the recommended change interval. Spark plug replacement surprise Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Ion Sensor - Control

I found this to be interesting particularly around the 11 minute mark when he discusses going to a thicker grade oil like quite a few of us have done and CAFE standards.

I had that problem a few years back with my '14. It ended up being the wiring harness connector to the camera in the rear hatch. I disconnected it, sprayed with electronic lube and reconnected it. Problem solved. Simple fix you might want to try first.