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ok, im thinking its not getting enough flow because it runs fine farther up in the system, i think im just gonna throw the electrical mil eliminator on the o2 sensor rather than the non foulers i got on there now

ok, so ive searched hi and low for the answer to the question...does a check engine light make the car run in open loop? i cant seem to find the answer anywhere. I am trying to find out if the check engine light will affect my tuning. I have a small exhaust leak, doesnt cause any performance...

appriciate the info, i was kindof unsure about how to hook it up, did a little research tho and figured out how to hook it up to the piggy back....i didnt know that there was a wire on the wideband specifically to hook up to an input like that

no, you cant turn it off, its automatically set to run the standard timing unless you mess with it, its set up pretty much like the fuel map except it starts at 0

so im woking on trying to tune the car. just put the new turbo in and only real problem im running into is that the datalogging for the split second FTC outputs the afr as voltage. Anyone know where i can find a table or conversion chart that will convert the voltage into the afr so i dont...

so i installed my new turbo today...well over the last few days. Just looking to see if anyone has a good map for me to start off with for the tuning. I have CAI, relocated MAF, GT28RS, 626 intake manifold, perrin exhaust, and the split second ATC. I have the wastegate set up to the stock one...

ok so ive go everything clocked the way it has to be and i would like to run stock boost. seems the only way to get the stock actuator on there is to only have one bolt on the t25 wastegate actuator bracket, which from what ive read is ok. only other question i have is it seems like the rod is...

i have a wideband and the stuff i need to tune it, im not concerned with doing the tune, i jest need to have my car up and running. just seems like going off what i have now to tune would be much quicker than starting from scratch pretty much with the 440 injectors, i can always tear into that...

I have 440 injectors at the house that ive had for a while and I have the split second afc. As far as i know they are good, i got them from a buddy who upgraded his wrx injectors...from what i understand the wrx injectors are a drop in for the msp. I just figured if i didnt have to go through...

im going to upgrade my turbo to a gt28rs, i am only going to run 7-8 lbs of boost, i have an afc, fmic, turbo back exhaust and the 626 intake manifold. Im just wondering if i need to step up to 440 injectors. Everything else runs fine with the stock injectors, im just not sure if they can...

so im upgrading to a gt28rs and 440 injectors and im trying to find a good base map to work with for the tune. I was wondering if anyone had a descent map to start me off my mods are CAI, perrin fmic, 626 intake manifold, 440cc injectors, GT28rs, perrin jpipe back 3 inch exhaust and the split...

So when i was pressure cheking my car again today i noticed some things that seemed odd to me. one was that the pressure i was putting on the intake system was about 10 psi and the pressure was bleeding ito the crank case from my pcv valve, is this normal? Is it just minimal pressure loss or...

i dont really kno what a leakdown test is, i just hooked up a small air compressor to check the intake for leaks

the t clamps on the maf, it suprised me cuz those are the only 2 tbolt clamps i have on the car and they leaked and ive herd everone talk about them like they are gods gift to clamps just seems odd to me

ok, just checking, bbecause it didnt seem to make sence to me that the vent line for the crakcase, the one that runs back to the intake, would be pressurized

so i finally got the correct things to pressure checy my engine. I found a few leaks that id never have guessd were leaking and i noticed one thing that seamed weird to me. The crank case vent has air comming out of it, like a lot of air. Is that actually correct or is something wrong with...

yea its a protection thing ive got just bout everything from intake to exhaust changed out to include an fmic and a afc

well when i see the spike im refering to the EBC is off. However when i turn it on it should be set to about 10 psi, i have my boost protection set at 12 so it shuts off befor it mssing anything up from overboosting

so i pressure checked the car and fixed what was leaking, runs far better in terms of holding boost but still spikes very bad and hold boost at about 4.5 to 5 psi. a bit lower than the wastegate should be holding. is is possible that the actuator spring is going bad? and also ould that be...

anyone happen to know what size pvc adapter id need for hooking it up to where the maf attaches?