My mom's car (Mazda 5 2015) had all front rotors and pads replaced last summer by a third party shop. I pulled the front pads and rotors and replaced them a month or so ago with OEM pads and rotors ordered from MazdaSwag. There was excessive pulsing in the pedal and excessive wear on the pads...
You need to ONLY use OEM MAF sensors. It's well known that all the non-OEM MAFs simply do not work. This really goes for ALL sensors.
Clean your old one correctly with MAF cleaner and put it back in.
Regardless, this points more to the air temperature sensor and not a MAF. MAF doesn't...
For the P2004 did you double check the connection shown in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPWyBGNe1DA
Otherwise, you probably need to remove that part and test the solenoid or just replace it. Not sure exactly what it is but it looks like when it has no power the computer throws...
https://www.kbb.com/obd-ii/p0421/
Looks like the sensors are telling you your CAT is going bad.
To me the computer is probably acting correctly. When you clear the codes, then start things up, it probably waits a bit to throw anything because it's relearning from the reset. But by then the...
Well, get the leak sorted and all first. Then bleed it. See if it gets better. Then bleed it some more. I do not know the process.
Regarding the spongy brakes, there is a valve that gets stuck in the ABS module and no one wants to pay for. The part is $1100 but it's often the answer when...
My 2010 MT at 140k miles is going strong. I wonder how these MTs could even break? Does the car even have that much power? I know the clutch can go and the dealer I bought from claimed a clutch was installed at 110k Miles but that's expected maintenance.
My 2010 has been a solid car and I...
Realistically, I would not expect the radio unless the installer spliced into the wiring harness somewhere and nicked one of the blower motor wires.
Did you take any of the old motors out and test them? I guarantee you that not a single one was bad. (maybe just the first one)
The only way to...
Yup. I looked at replacing the left center one on my 2010. The whole section around it needs to be removed. I just live with it. I glued it once but it didn't hold.
But yeah, you'll need a large replacement piece of ducting, etc since everything seems to be integrated.
Old cars used to...
Well, as you've found out the "mid-class" parts industry has basically been dead for 5-10 years now.
You get to pick from:
OEM
trash Chinese garbage
niche performance parts.
There was a time I could go to NAPA and get better than average quality but all the parts suppliers raced to the bottom...
This is an interesting one...so you have TOO MUCH vacuum. This means that you don't have a leak but a blockage:
A blocked EVAP canister or vent solenoid
A defective tank pressure sensor
A collapsed or kinked hose between the canister and fuel tank
A fuel filler cap that has been stuck closed...
I go to the Mazda dealer for OEM parts.
I did get KYB struts for my 2008 and those are very similar to OEM. But if you want OEM you've always had to go to the dealer (or use a discount online Mazda dealer).
Define..."won't start"? When you turn the key, what happens? Do you hear a click? Does the engine turn over but not fire up?
Honestly between the security setups in modern cars and all the electronics between the key and the starter, you may need to take it to a dealer to get it sorted.