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I agree about the sway bar end links. Mine (CTR brand as I mentioned previously) arrived today. They have hex flats for a wrench, something the Mazda one's don't. I had to use needle nose vise grips to keep the ball stud from turning when replacing the front links a few years ago. These new...

I understand that Mevotech (like Moog and others) has several quality levels and the Mevotech Supreme are way superior to their lower line. Another brand, Beck-Arnley, used to be consistently reliable but I understand that now you don't know what quality level part is in the box until you open...

The brake hoses and pads were done last year. I only discovered the broken link 3 days ago and ordered new one's that are due for delivery today. I hear you about getting to be too old to be crawling around the driveway. That's why this job goes to my mechanic. Brakes aren't too bad to do, it's...

Interesting that you mention rear sway bar links. Two days ago on my 2014, at 77,850 miles, I discovered that the right rear link separated. After checking clearance and reviewing a few youtube videos and @Digbicks1234 experience he posted( with pictures) a while back doing his, I decided this...

Agree with your comments. Also, after reading about the poor opinions of Jasper engines from professional mechanics it maybe in the best interests of the OP to avoid them. Overpriced and poor quality. They had a good reputation years ago. Hate to say it but a very sludged up engine and internal...

For a three year old CX-5 that's still within power train warranty I'd use the dealer and avoid the quick lube places like the plague. At the dealer the service will be (or should be) correctly done and documented and most likely some other things checked (with a hard copy) as part of the...

I changed mine at the 10 year and ~71,000 mile mark using the NGK plugs. Even though the original plugs looked good and the gap was basically unchanged, the idle became smoother and the throttle response improved. Glad I changed them. It was also a good time because I changed the valve cover...

Without checking, I'd think that wouldn't be too high if the fuel has to be forced through tiny injector orifices with enough pressure for it to be atomized against cylinder compression pressure. I know my 2014's fuel pressure can reach ~2900 PSI (which I believe is the max spec) at high rpm...

The studs I'm referring to are the one's that fasten the BOTTOM of the shock to the knuckle not the top. Take a look at where the bottom of the shock mounts to the car. You should see a big nut and the tip of a stud that will accept a small hex socket to remove /install the stud. My...

I didn't see what model year the OP's Cx-5 is but mentions 12 years so I'll guess 2013. My 2014 was built in 9/13 and does not have a bolt retaining the bottom of the shock ( although service manual shows bolt)) but instead has a stud threaded into the knuckle and a 19mm(?) nut. I think the bolt...

This new tire looks interesting. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/pirelli-scorpion-weatheractive#:~:text=The%20Scorpion%20WeatherActive's%20innovative%20polymer,as%20quiet%20on%2Droad%20comfort.

I had those Geolandar's which came on my 2014 when purchased new. I grew to hate them and they were gone at 3000 miles. The good: decent ride and good handling on smooth roads. Good dry traction. No heavy rain to check hydroplaning. The bad: rough road really harsh ride and they wore quickly. At...

Have the alignment checked. If both wheels are toed out the same amount it will track straight.

How should we know. I mean ,really, is something this trivial even worth taking up the bandwidth to post and expecting answers.

Was it an actual leak or just seepage that develops given enough time. Did you actually see it beforehand and where was it located? With normal seepage that really isn't much more than a smudge that can be wiped off and takes a long time to reappear, some dealers will call it a leak and quote a...

Good writeup! Handy info to know. Thanks for posting. Do you think it would be possible to loosen the stud/sleeve (after rubber removal) with a pipe wrench. Also, maybe the possibility of using a "twist" socket on the end of the stud and an impact wrench. Would appreciate your thoughts on these...

Are they even available separately as a genuine Mazda part?

Check to see if the valve "core" inside the valve stem is screwed in tight. In fact check them all. Air can still leak out even if the little cap is on the valve stem.

It's best to use OEM factory sensors (MAF, IAT,O2,ECT, etc). Although more expensive, the aftermarket sensors can be a crapshoot. I'd hate to have a defective cheap sensor not alert me to an engine overheat or cause other problems. Source them cheaper online from a Mazda dealer. Mazda's are...