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...as an aside: If you have to drop the tank, you may as well replace the fuel pump, sending unit, and all the seals, valves, hoses and so forth since it'll be far easier when the tank is down.

Smoke test. You have a leak and it could be anywhere. All the hoses and grommets and connections are all aged rubber and plastic and the leak can be anywhere. Lucky for you, it's now a BIG leak...so should be easy to find with a smoke test.

I doubt any electronic repair shop is going to front you a module before you send one in. Maybe for a really expensive up front core charge? But you'd have to ask. Maybe get one from a junkyard\ebay and test it in your car? Then send one of them in if there are still issues?

It is easy. What do you mean by you have a lack of acceleration? Cleaning the TB probably won't help with mid range or higher acceleration. That's when the butterfly valve in the TB will be open quite a ways and any carbon build up isn't going to restrict much of anything. If the issue is...

Like any car...you only need an alignment when the car doesn't track correctly or if tire wear is uneven. Otherwise, I do one every 4-5 years just to make sure.

This is for a Mazda3...but it looks about the same: Does that help?

What have you measured your draw as? If you have a clamp on meter, then it should be easy. Then pull the fuse and verify the draw has disappeared. Taking the voltage reading across the fuse is a good way to start narrowing it down but you still want to be certain you are chasing the correct...

I tell the shop to take the locking lugs off and just chuck them in the trash and put on regular ones. Thieves just use conical sleeved impact sockets that work on anything.

OEM only. Get them from an online Mazda dealer. Then they are usually about 30% cheaper. The cheap Densos on Amazon and ebay are fakes.

If the timing cover is leaking...time to pull it and find out the real reason. A timing cover isn't supposed to hold any fluids in.

The shields help with mpg and road debris. On the two Mazdas I have, I have repaired one and replaced the other that was ripped off some point in its history prior to my ownership. The parts weren't expensive and the only issue I had was one of the front attachment bolt mounts was ripped out...

Go to Partsouq.com. Put in your VIN (very important). Then click on the diagram you need and get the part number. For my 2010 MZ5, (I think it's probably the same for you) uses this diagram...

I go to Partsouq.com, put in my cars VIN (very important) and then use the diagrams to find the part numbers. I take the part numbers to an online discount Mazda dealer like MazdaSwag.

Shouldn't be the brake switch. That's causing the one to work. Your first instinct is right, check your fuses.

Well, if you really flooded the cowl vents, then next would be checking the Windshield then I think.

Not with these but with other cars. Especially old old cars. I had a '67 Cougar that pissed on my left foot when it rained. I just lived with it. But it applies to any car really. Always test any fix a mechanic does. In this case, the mechanic was lazy and didn't run a hose test after his...

Yeah, a 6 year old battery on its last legs could do that. Modern cars require a solid power source for those pesky electronics to keep chooching.

Usually that means you have a hole rusted in the cowl. If so, it'll need to be patched.

I have used this site for my Mazda 3: https://www.car-part.com/ I do a few different searches and look for pics of cars that look to have the parts I need. They don't always list every single part on the car. Good luck.

If you want it perfect, yeah, you'll need a large area resprayed. Reds and Blue metallics are a total b**** to match and blend. You have to use tricks along the edges of panels to fool the eye. See what a PDR guy can do. Some of those guys can work near miracles. Or...just ignore it. Stuff...