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You can either buy the cover new which will come with new material (it is all one assembly) or you can rip that stuff out and throw it away (it's not needed) or you can buy fireproof insulation and probably reattach it like the old stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBWXRLLH/

I call the dealer and give the parts guy my vin. He looks it up and gives me the part number. Never been steered wrong yet. The dealer has a DIFFERENT database than you or websites have access to online. If I don't buy from them I use the part number online. The parts guys never care.

You don't have to remove or touch the rack to replace the struts. I've done a Mazda 3 and 5 and didn't have to deal with the rack when replacing struts. I don't think you will save much on labor. If the struts aren't leaking you're probably fine, otherwise replace them AND replace the top...

Steering fluid is just ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid. That fluid expands greatly when cold versus being warmed up or hot. As long as the level is in the normal range, you're fine. Even if it's a bit lower than normal, you're fine. Power Steering is very forgiving on the fluid level.

Looking into it. You'll need to post how many speakers you have. What kind of steering wheel do you have. You have an automatic based on the one bezel but which one? The 2000 or the 2500? What country of origin is this car? CD or No CD? Best thing might be to take all this info into Mazda...

For a 2006, the part number is: C2Y6-43-7AZ (or C2Y6-43-7AZB; C2Y6437AZA) https://parts.mazdausa.com/p/Mazda__/UNIT--HYDRAULIC-ABS/105379871/C2Y6-43-7AZ.html Made ONLY for 2006-2007 Mazda 5. I'm thinking that the Mazda 5 is unique in the drive train and weight combination and it requires an...

Normally, I'd say that if the part looks the same across the brands, it will work but I looked up the part "C5Y3-43-7AZB" and it is ONLY for Mazda 5 2012-2015 2.5L engine. That is too too specific for my liking. Meaning that I was expecting it to fit earlier years and other models like the...

Can't help if you don't post your car year, or trim level. Drive train info might help too.

For one, what year car is this? What engine? What transmission? P2096 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1 Since the sensors were replaced...or at least I hope they were, then it's an actual LEAN problem. Too much AIR and not enough FUEL. You need to have a shop diagnose it...

Not overheating? I would suspect a blown head gasket overheating the coolant and it bubbling into the overflow. But if the car isn't overheating...I dunno what that is other than a bad radiator cap.

Get the battery load tested if you didn't load test it. Clean the terminals on the battery. Check cables to see if they are corroded internally. Check all engine and body grounds for corrosion.

Good chance you have a vacuum leak letting in too much air. Do the old vacuum leak test trick to see. 15-20 years is about when all the rubber hoses in an engine bay get rock hard and form cracks\leaks. Otherwise check all things related to air intake. If still nothing then I would move to...

Well, for one the 140kmile Mazda 5 hasn't been changed from the looks of it. Otherwise it was manuals from the 80's 90s that all used ATF. Never had an issue with them with a good number of miles and thrashing them. Replaced a few clutches though. Automatics were another story. All other...

Why do you think the TCM is bad? It may be telling you the truth. Solenoids probably need replacing.

I have never needed to change fluid in a manual transmission. Automatic, sure. But manual? The fluid doesn't really wear out.

All the ports inthe Mazda 5 and Mazda 3 have gone flaky and they've all been the contacts in the port. Various fixes like tin foil glued in the bottom, and tape around the usb adapters, etc have been done to make them work reliably. If they start to be an issue again I'm going to just hard...

Then he had a bad engine ground. the TB is already grounded.

Never go solely on numbers printed or stamped on a part. Those are considered ENGINEERING numbers and NOT part numbers. They are indeed similar and usually clue you into the area of the car but are RARELY able to be cross referenced.

Get a wiring diagram and check all your GROUNDS. This could be a bad ground somewhere affecting the PCM.

Sounds like you have a drain somewhere. If it happens again, disconnect ALL aftermarket devices. I have ripped out countless aftermarket junk out of cars and electrical problems always evaporate.