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Sounds like wiring or a motor to me.

Is it not accelerating or not shifting? I thought a bad TCM would exhibit erratic shifting or lack of shifting. Once in a gear, shouldn't the car still accelerate even if the TCM is bad? Did you pull codes? I just don't see how the TCM would make the ECU "pop and bang" and run poorly. I...

How many miles on the struts? If you have the original struts and over 100k miles...they are the cause of your clunking. Had clunking on both the 2010 mazda 5 and 2008 mazda 3 I bought and new KYB front struts with new upper OEM bearings fixed the clunking. I did replace the sway bushing on...

Could be a weak fuel pump. A car that runs fine until you accelerate is often a Throttle Body issue or a fuel pump.

Voltage regulator in the alternator is probably cutting out due to too many RPMs. Or belt is slipping.

Electrical OEM parts are always better. But it sounds like you have a short somewhere. So yeah, if you can, test the motor.

I literally just did the Chris Fix version of this...and it's been 3 years now and the lenses are still clear. There have been some bug strikes so they are not super perfect but for a cheap fix, I'd do it again. You have to sand down to the point you don't have any more yellow and then...

It can. But won't rule it out either since you're chasing a weak pump and not a dead one. Could be a fuel regulator going bad too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lOM3Xt5tdI Hard starts can be a pain to find. Might ultimately not be a fuel issue. Like was mentioned above, it might be a...

I've made the same mistake on another car. I disassembled the door on the other side.

Better to blow a fuse than to melt stuff. If you switch it and the 10A heater fuse starts blowing. I would then find another circuit to draw from as the heating elements are requiring ALL of those 15A.

Turning the key on and off can "bump" the fuel pump to get to working and build up pressure. You're cycling power to the fuel pump and it just gets it to work. Eventually you will have to do it a few times and then it won't work at all. Fuel pumps are funny. When they start going out, they...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwqhHXjJH24

Usually a slow start with no code can be a few things: Fuel pump going bad. Not enough fuel pressure. Cam\Crank Sensors are going bad. Timing can't be detected by ECU. MAF going bad\dirty. ECU can't determine the correct fuel mixture. Basically, when cranking, the ECU is looking at those...

You must be me. I took OEM TOYOTA rear shocks to Firestone (for my 4Runner). I brought them in tagged and bagged as TOYOTA parts with a receipt from the dealer. Got the same bulls*** that they could be bad quality. I asked if they would source them from the dealer then...I could return what...

3D printed plastic at the thinness you need for a key won't work for long even with the door locks. No way would it work for the ignition. Especially PLA. I would have used ABS. Problem is now, you probably need to call a locksmith. Describe the issue. They may send you to a body shop...

So....I gotta ask... This isn't a 3D printed metal key? You made a plastic key and tried it in the ignition?

Just remember, most Mazda 5 stuff are just Ford parts.

Mazdaswag for me.

The Factory Service Manual is the only good one. I find them as downloadable pdfs on ebay for cheap. Not sure why you'd need chassis bracing. There isn't enough HP on these cars to flex anything. Best mod is probably the Mazda 3 rear sway bar. It's noticeably beefier. I swapped that in and...

Parallel? Then there is a risk that the manufacturer didn't expect that any more than 15A was going to go through that fuse connection at the fuse box. Adding the 10A circuit in parallel to a 15A circuit means you potentially have 25A going through the fuse box at that connection. This can...