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Strut mounts do indeed clunk, especially after a lot of miles. There is a bearing inside because the strut rotates when the wheels are steered. Even though the strut dampens, some road shock is transmitted right up the strut to the mount That's why it's prudent to install new mounts with new...

I changed front sway bar end links at around 60k mile mark because of a clunk when going over even small bumps. Was very noticeable. With the wheels off couldn't detect any vertical play (maybe due to tension still applied from sway bar) but pushing and pulling in/out on the ball and socket end...

It wasn't as if the Monroe struts suddenly failed or turned to mush, it's when they got "softer" and leaned more in turns and lost some damping ability. It was around that mileage that I noticed and it wasn't an overnight change. They weren't suddenly horrible but were degrading faster than I...

Stay away from Monroe. Search the web and you'll find they don't have a great reputation. I had them twice on previous cars and it took about 3-4 weeks before they settled in (rode high and a bit firm). At about 20-25,000 miles they started going soft. It's not a money saving proposition by...

Access to the bolts that clamp the bushings in place is difficult to put it mildly. My mechanic charged me ~$80 labor to install them. Not surprised. I supplied the bushings which are quality aftermarket that cost~$20 so about 100 bux all in. The bushings I got were CTR brand (CTR is an OEM...

In 2022 I changed the sway bar end links. Following months later were the lower control arms (torn bushings and torn leaking BJ boots) using OEM Mazda. Although not badly worn yet the tie rod ends also got replaced due to torn boots since they are not expensive and an alignment was going to be...

Protruding tabs should snap into a (square/rectangular) hole in a "bracket " portion of the strut. Check the other side for reference assuming it too hasn't detached. My driver side one kept detaching years ago so I just zip tied them to something adjacent( some kind of "bumper thing" ? ---...

As stated above, take it back to the dealer to let them solve it.. And didn't you notice this during a test drive before purchase. And did the dealer actually drive it or just check alignment when you took it back. It shouldn't be your problem to solve.

Pish tosh, poppycock. If they're offering a kit at that price it ought to provide some real illumination.

There's "memory steer" that can also be caused by sticking ball joints and tie rod ends. Had it happen on a previous car. The steering wouldn't stay returned to natural center. Would correct left and it would stay stuck, then return to right and same. Constantly correcting from left or right...

The belt most likely doesn't need replacing. As I posted earlier, the dealers seem to automatically want to replace belts even with low(er) mileage. My tensioner leaked at 29k miles and the dealer quoted new belts( yes, water pump belt too) as part of the job. As you said...... something about a...

Good catch! This smells even worse since they're already removing those parts as part of the warranty repair.

Interesting. Thanks for the clarification on the pads never changed.

I'll second that. On previous cars the fronts wore a lot faster than rears.

Well, I would think that if you read the above conversations that it probably isn't in your best interest financially to have the dealer do the job for$574. I find it suspect that the belt (assuming serpentine belt) is cracked at 36,000 miles. Maybe (that's maybe) some oil from the tensioner...

I remember that rear brake pads have a material thickness of 6 mm when new. With a 2 mm minimum thickness (time to change) that leaves 4 mm of usable wear. So, 5mm would indicate more than 50% pad life remaining. So here it gets interesting assuming front and rear pads have the same mileage on...

Makes me wonder if there is a problem in the steering rack or the electric assist (on the steering column under the dash) has a centering problem.

With that amount of mileage there's no telling what the source is. Rather than zero-in on one particular item, thorough full undercarriage inspection, front to back might expose various things worn and needing attention soon.

The OP mentions squealing under braking. Could be the normal squealing alert from the "scraper/squealer" affixed to the brake pad doing it's job indicating pad material is getting low.

I haven't been following this thread but just went back to the first page of this very lengthy thread and read what the OP posted. Summary of my thoughts. 1) this is a mess 2) the YOKO's (G91) same as I had..... suck. They ride harsh. That's why they got changed at 3k miles. Subaru owners with...