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Three years! One year max for mine and more like 7-8 months. No charcoal versions. Every one I tried restricted the airflow too much. We all do whatever works for us. And yea, you're right. That is nasty. LOL

Engine won't even be warm yet after only a minute after starting. It takes time to warm up hundreds of pounds of metal much less get it to overheat temperature. At that point it wouldn't be water pump related if it ever was. I'd guess sensor or wiring/ electrical connector issue.

How is the "diagnosis" going to proceed further if the OP is afraid to even quickly touch the engine for themselves. Feels like a lot of "wheel spinning" has gone on already. Also feels like we're being led. This thread has gotten ridiculous.

Agree on the lack of a glove box light. Some other annoyances due to Mazda's cost cutting are the lack of window switch button lighting except for the drivers window. Also no courtesy lights on the front floor foot wells or at the bottom of the door panels. The cargo area could have had more...

What country was it built in and I wonder what countries the parts were sourced from. My 2014 CX-5 (like all CX-5's ) was built in Japan with 90% Japanese content parts and has none of the issues you mention. Beyond materials degrading and design issues there's also the build quality/QC aspect...

Haven't heard of that failure mode. I would think the spring would still compress and allow the pressure to release. I've seen where the gasket compresses and hardens and starts to leak and allows the coolant to slowly "boil" away. Slow enough while driving not to see any steam escape. Followed...

That's a massive list of potential offenders. Where do you even start. I didn't see you mention experiencing any no start/hard start situations but if you did, a failing crankshaft position sensor can cause those as well as misfires and poor running/lack of power on an intermittent basis.

My 2014 Touring had dealer oil changes until 5/60 powertrain warranty expired. After that I did a few 0w-20 oil changes myself and then went 5w-30. Quieter and smoother, no comparison. No more 0w-20. My agenda for a quieter, long lasting engine doesn't line up with the thinner oil/CAFE blather...

Sounds like a good idea. Might help prolong the CX-5's "joints" also (suspension bushings and struts etc.). You may score a good deal on new car "take-off's" where somebody went custom wheels.

Have the "fuel trims" (long term and short term fuel trims) been checked. Even an inexpensive OBD scanner can show those when viewing the LIVE DATA mode. Maybe the power control module (the "computer") is calling for excess fuel for some reason.

You want to burp the air out on the level not raised on ramps. With radiator filled to the top of the neck for starters, level should drop when thermostat opens at full operating temp (or close) and rev engine and maintain at 2500-3000 for a couple minutes. You should see the level drop as...

Lights and codes aside, overheat in 6 miles would lead me to believe that there is still air in the system. Have you checked the radiator level each time on a cold engine before startup. May need to add more coolant. Is the overflow bottle reasonably full or is it empty and the radiator level...

Absolutely. Change out the coolant and flush the brake system. The coolant from a corrosion standpoint and the brakes from the standpoint that brake fluid absorbs moisture which lowers the boiling point of the fluid and can also cause corrosion in the system especially the expensive ABS...

Could be differences in tires (rolling resistance) and tire pressure. These definitely do make a difference but 21 mpg highway is definitely low. But for city/around town driving then 21 mpg would be plausible.

Yes, be glad that you live such a place. I left California many years ago to return to the midwest and in addition to still missing the weather I also still miss a car that stays pretty clean and rust free underneath and above. My CX-5 gets the engine compartment washed gently 2-3 times a year...

Another cleaner, Purple Power, on a previous car attacked the finish on my aluminum wheels. Had me moving around like a madman rinsing it off. Decided to read the label(duh). Stuff was highly alkaline and do not use on aluminum.

Grimy? Doesn't look out of line for going through a winter where the roads are salted/chemically treated. There's a thing called a radiator that allows air (and road dirt) to pass through the fins into the engine compartment. The aluminum end cap on the vacuum pump looks like it's been exposed...

It's not a wheel position sensor. It's a wheel speed sensor wire for the ABS.