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Totally agree. When it comes to drive line parts it's OEM, except engine oil. Years ago I had a Corolla with high mileage , over 300k, when the starter finally quit. The parts guy at the Toyota dealer warned me about after market starters for this but I didn't listen. I "saved" $150 on an...

I had a Corolla that went 17 years before the original starter went, alternator never went bad in all that time. Don't waste your money with that stuff, they last longer than you think.

I still have my original cap on, I just bought one for when I swap out the antifreeze sometime in the following weeks. You gotta ask what the difference is between the Mazda and say a Stant which is about half the price. Anyone know what the new rev was all about?

It's actually a common issue over many decades for many cars. As a heads up, Mazda will charge up to $34 for an OEM cap...ask me how I know...

2016 is one of the best years put out. Pay attention to possible EPB lock ups, they revised the brake caliper for that. Also, timing cover/oil pan leaks.

Check your radiator cap seal to see if it's swollen. When they get swollen they get stuck and tend to block the flow of coolant to the expansion tank causing excessive pressure in the system. Common problem.

It's an interesting change since it's not an energy saving weight. It seems to be out of a newer online manual. I wonder it it's in response to the rollback in CAFE standards? Good to see you back by the way.

That's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the differences between the oil chart from 2016 versus the one in this post. There's a half dozen new oil grades which aren't CAFE oils on your chart. All of a sudden Mazda is giving its blessing for these grades.

Maybe check your exhaust for anything stuck to it. Years ago a plastic shopping bag got tangled on the pipe before the catalytic converter, the thing melted on and burned a little at a time each time the engine started. It was on there for weeks before I had to go under and scrape it off but...

To me it is. It's not in the 2016 manual. Doesn't spec anything past 5w-30 anywhere in the world for that year.

Wow, 10w-50 is in the mix now? Incredible.

Yep, I see Amsoil went up just today, ordered my stash yesterday.

I believe it was a few years earlier than 2018...don't remember. Bah! The conversation was also about how WIX made a filter specifically for the CX5 NA 2.5/2.0, WIX 57002

Yep, I used a 3/8 drive 12" long ratchet with a pipe attachment for extra torque with a low profile 23mm socket. Definitely a tight area, the low profile socket is a must.

Yeah, years ago Mazda put out a TSB about not using aftermarket filters for the NA 2.0 & 2.5, I believe it had to do with the ADBV. It used to be on this site, for the life of me I can't find it. The Thailand filter doesn't have this but the MV Mexican made filters do. Probably why my dealership...

You might want to rethink changing that air filter so often, a dusty filter is more efficient:

Valid question and I often question the validity of the "under filled" statement. I think they put the amount they feel is required. But, the service manual does say fill until it runs out of the hole. From a 2013 service manual, don't know if it applies to the newer models but I don't see why...

Must've had a senior moment, lol. 2013~2016 - CX-5 Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change: Tools, Parts and Links