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I'm sure it does go negative, but the gauge might not be sensitive enough to measure. Also, the position of the gauge is important. Putting it in a 'dead space' area of the intake will give false readings. Ideally the gauge would be at the turbo inlet as that would be the furthest from all the...

I'd be interested to see 0-60 and quarter mile time comparison. Considering stock is about 300ftlb at 2000rpm, I have no confidence in those 'dyno' graphs. What are those graphs showing, 180ftlb torque at 2000rpm? The torque curve is not representative of a stock or stock-ish 2.5T.

I think a turbo engine would be less susceptible to a restricted element than naturally aspirated. Assuming the turbo is not undersized from the start, if you have a little more restriction from the intake, the turbo could spin a bit harder (or wastegate blow off less) and maintain same air...

Depends on how perfect you want it. You could bend it back yourself and touch it up, but it probably won't look great. Better than leaving as-is though. I'm sure a good body shop could get that looking new in exchange for $.

Hopefully the Mazda service center is not at the dealer selling the vehicle.

Keep us posted on the results and if you have info on what the dealer did to fix it.

Good test. Also shows how relatively little restriction there is in the element itself compared to the full system.

If the inlet is designed well, downstream static pressure and 'true' pressure drop should be the same. Regarding the 25" restriction, I meant that as final value, which would be about 10" above what you have with a clean element. 10" rise is fairly typical for recommended filter change. Also...

FYI that doesn't measure pressure drop, it measures static restriction (reference to atmosphere) Also, depending on where you place the gauge can affect the reading as well. But, use of a restriction gauge is very smart, you don't have to guess if it's dirty or not. Check the gauge every once...

I'm guessing the new speedo is just the face cover that can be swapped out. And I agree with youri that it looks like they found a cheap aftermarket MPH one to replace the factory KPH one.

What we call a 'paper' filter, which is pretty much any factory style air filter, is least efficient at removing dust when it's new. As it gets dirty, that dirt fills in voids/spaces in the filter and while doing so, it will filter more (and smaller) particles. You do get to a point where...

👆 This. I can go into a long spiel about it, but I'll save everyone from falling asleep unless someone is interested.

Money grab, just do it yourself for fraction of the $ and about 5 minutes of your time. But also, as cz5gt said, it really depends on where you live and the environment. Unless you live/drive on dirt roads, I would just go by 30k mile change. Changing filter too often is actually detrimental to...

Looks like it's a Memorial Week free trial. https://www.siriusxm.com/offers/free-listen

Another MN fella here. First question, where do you live? If you're like me and live in Minneapolis/St. Paul area, a decent all season/weather tire is usually fine since the roads are typically cleared within a day of snow. Ideally, as previously said, a separate set of wheel/tires for winter...

And you are paying for that. We have 3 people on a 3gb shared plan for $35/month total. Unlimited plans plans are ~$135/month. Yes, I'm that cheap. :) My in-laws still have flip phones (which are very cheap), so they use built-in nav on their vehicles.

Good to hear something works to remove it. I was going to suggest maybe a wheel cleaner. Those can sometimes remove grime that other products can't (and are typically safe on paint).

I agree with PTguy but also, you should be within the factory warranty so let dealer deal with it(?).

I would also scan for codes. Could be a bad sensor. Also, check brake fluid level. My wife's old CX9 had something similar and she was low on brake fluid. Topped it off and all lights went off.

Are you saying your CX5 stopped working 2x due to the oil weep/seep?