Small update.
I replaced the coil and it appears it may be working. I say "may" because I might be low on refrigerant. The compressor was engaging and spinning now but it didn't get any more than "cool".
That coil and clutch was rotten. The car only spent a few winters in MA but it might...
So I dug into it a bit. Jumped the AC relay a few times and heard a faint "click". The pulley clutch still spun so I'm pretty sure we're down to a bad coil in the compressor. Going to do a bit more investigating when I can get the covers off. I think you can get just the coil and from the...
The Mazda 5 has a plastic hatch. Very light. That car is literally the most versatile thing ever. Too bad people hated it so much that they stopped selling it.
Small update. I checked the drain and nothing was plugged. Then the car sat for most of the winter. Swapped in a new battery because old one crapped the bed due to non use. That's not relevant.
Got in today and started her up in about 2-3 months and No AC whatsoever. So I'm kind of happy...
Probably take it to the dealer. These systems all require the dealer to reprogram and calibrate after replacing the broken part. I have a Rav4 that the bumper cover was messed up on and the calibration just for the radar sensors was quoted at $500.
Luckily it looks like no sensor damage and...
If you replace it, only use OEM.
You sure it's the upper one? Isn't this code referring to the downstream one that comes after the cat?
I suppose it could be either one as I believe the ECM relies on both to figure out its efficiency.
My mom has a CX-5 and the lift gate is just heavy enough that it is bothering her aging hands. The Mazda 5 she used to have was fine as it's rear hatch was lighter/better balanced and we never figured the hatch in this CX-5 would be an issue.
I see a hew retrofit kits on Amazon, etc but none...
A 2014 probably won't throw codes for this. Maybe an expensive reader will get something from the BCM. Usually these things will activate the fan when you crank the temps all the way to the top at least. That would have at least ruled out the basics. If the BCM is in full control of...
Look at the wiring and the voltages at various points of the circuit. Maybe look at the wiring diagram for your car and see what else participates in the circuit. Stop replacing parts until you know the root cause or at least have it narrowed down.
Regardless, it is unusual that it doesn't...
If you smell diesel when it's smoking, you're probably looking at a bad injector, bad compression or bad timing.
Get a compression test and a leak down test done. That will rule out warn heads/valves/cylinder rings.
If the mechanic does a listen test on each injector while in the car and...
You are running lean so you've most likely got a vacuum leak. Do the brake cleaner vacuum leak finder trick. This will find leaks you can't find by looking.
When was the last time the hoses were changed? If not, by now you probably have some that are rock hard.
Also, did you use a Mazda MAF...
I used a Quarter and bolt trick it open a bit then a Big sledge with a block of wood to hit it out. I did this on a 2010 Mazda 5 and 2008 Mazda 3. You just keep hitting until it is free.
Quarter/washer trick:
This is me. I pulled apart an entire dash to replace a single bulb. Then a week later I had to do it all again for the second bulb...
...by the third bulb I was an expert.
Ignore it? I've put a piece of tape over mine and just carry a $1 gauge to check air pressure like we always did.
If you truly want to fix it, you have to make sure each wheel has its TPMS sensor in it with a good battery. Then you need to fork over $100 to a shop to reprogram it. If you...