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Ditto! I’ll take the crown at 38, anybody else able to top that? 😄 CX-5 is an awesome family vehicle. Bought our ‘13 2.0L brand new and had many happy years of ownership. Our oldest daughter came home in that CX-5 after she was born. Miss that car every day, glad we got the ‘23 to keep Mazda...

Yeah, I’m not aware of any 21 model year brake issues. Hope it’s nothing crazy. Highly recommend an inspection overall before purchase and mentioning the brake noise. Shouldn’t be a deal breaker but could save you a bit of a headache if the rear brakes need service.

Bingo, that’s what I’m thinking. When I back up my foot is still applying some pressure on the brake pedal. I rarely full send and take my foot completely off. Reapplying full pressure would stop the squeal if there was some light surface rust.

It’s possible, but I think you back up more slowly while in reverse. I doubt you’re taking your foot completely off the brake pedal while in reverse. Instead the pad is dragging slowly over the rotor and could cause a squeal. I tend not to hear a squeal from surface rust moving forward as the...

It could be as simple as some slight rust buildup on the rotors. I’d expect the squeal to go away though after some driving and braking around town. It never really happens to my vehicles which are garage kept, but if they are outside in high humidity for a period of time or there was some...

Kedis shared the image I had in mind, thanks! Also, thanks Jadmt for calling out the discrepancy. The pic is in the mcx5.org Service and Repair manual, not my ‘23 owners manual. I’m not sure if current Mazda procedure aligns between the first and second gen in their service manual, AI suggests...

Came across this Reddit forum today with an interesting video. I didn’t know Mazda doesn’t sell replacement bushings for the rear differential. If you want OEM you’ll have to replace the subframe. Not all doom and gloom though as aftermarket bushings exist. However, a poster suggested using the...

I personally prefer DOT4 over 3 for better performance, but you may have to replace it more often as it absorbs moisture faster. Any bottle of DOT4 synthetic will do the trick. Pick up a liter and that should be enough. If you’re feeling bougie, give ATE SL6 a shot. It’s low viscosity (class 6)...

My Titan had one of these when I bought it certified pre-owned. I opted not to pay for the service and asked if the dealership could remove the device. They said no, it’s installed already but no worries, you don’t have to pay for it. Got home and found it attached to the OBD port. I realized...

100 miles round trip? I love my turbo CX-5 but it wouldn’t be practical for that compared to other vehicles. A Mazda3 AWD would be nice but it would be pure commuter to me. Backseat is too tight imo to regularly have my kids in the back. The 6 is a ton of fun to drive with the turbo, I’d...

Ever been to a scrapyard? Curious what the payout would be for the old rotors. If you’ve never been it’s kind of a hilarious experience. I got about $20 if I remember right scrapping my old shocks and struts. Weighed my car going in and out to determine how much scrap I dropped off, drove around...

You’ll have to paint the calipers to achieve the full Brembo benefit 🤗

I can’t explain the Proact discrepancy either. When I paired those with some carquest coated rotors, stopping performance for me was like N7’s experience. Could’ve knocked a … well, I’ll leave the expressions to your imagination.

I thought the Akebono Proact pads were just fine too (I used those on my old ‘13 CX-5). I don’t think you’ll go wrong either way. I thought the same thing as you too on the hybrid pad. The truck had ceramics from the factory, the previous owner I think had some Brakes Plus cheapo pads put on...

You need a special gauge to measure run-out on something like rotors. Good thing you verified there wasn’t visible build up on them, won’t be able to see warping if present. Technically you might be able to find a place that could turn the rotors while they’re on the car, but I’d personally...

I threw those x-gauge parameters into Google Gemini and here’s what it spit out when I said to convert to PID: Based on the codes you provided, you are looking at a Transmission Fluid Temperature gauge, likely for a Toyota or Lexus vehicle. Here is the breakdown of those values converted into...

Thread 'Scan Gauge II - X-Gauge Code - Transmission Fluid Temperature' Scan Gauge II - X-Gauge Code - Transmission Fluid Temperature This worked for me on my Scangauge for my ‘23 CX-5. Not sure if it’s helpful for your scanner and model but figured it was worth a try. Edit: dug a little...

For the first time as a car owner, I got bit with odd issues like this due to a failing battery. My forward anti-collision system failed to activate a few times on my Titan over the last month. Shutting off and restarting fixed it. Last weekend, truck failed to start. Battery was shot and didn’t...

Oof. I’d consider biting the bullet and making an insurance claim to get it fixed. I had to replace the grille on my CX-5 due to a rock strike and was able to do it for less than $250 (aftermarket parts, tools, my own labor). That headlamp is a different animal.