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At that age they're not safe, tend to dry rot faster. That's why you need to check that date code when you buy used tires.

Yes, in case you don't know it's actually one piece, plug attached to the patch. The bead has to be broken and you have to scuff the inside of the tire with a tool so there's better adhesion.

A few years ago I was looking for new snow tires and the garage I go to for tires only said they had a good deal on a set of tires they had in the back. The date code showed they were manufactured 6 years prior, yeah they were "new" still having the original manufacturers stickers on but too old...

Why do you want to go to a 40 weight?

Patch with the plug is the proper and best way to go. Cracking indicates dry rot, get rid of them. Also, when you buy a "new" set of tires check the date code. Anything older than 7 years is a no-go.

Consumption can be caused by gummed up rings as seen on engines with high OCI, fuel dilution, shear down, etc.. The Valvoline Protect and Restore seems to solve this by its incredible cleaning abilities, just one example of a good oil solving a simple consumption issue. I think 5w-30 is way more...

Yeah, that's another big thing with these engines, particularly with DI, fuel dilution and oil shear down. Another reason why I stick with the 5w-30 boutique oils.

different country, different set of circumstances, understandable.

oops

When I switched to 5w-30 I started with Castrol, damn good oil, and yes valve train got considerably quieter.

BP claims on their website that their blend exceeds Top Tier minimum standards. https://www.bp.com/en_us/united-states/home/products-and-services/fuels.html#accordion_what-does-invigorate-do

..."no one knows what an EVAP system is".. Seriously?? Find a new garage. Sounds like a bad purge solenoid or vent valve which is why you smell gas vapors especially if there's so much pressure build up.

Engine is still CDA?

Trigger words for me are "unlimited warranty". To me that means not-as-good-as. Kind of like Hyundai with their 10 year drive train warranty.

Totally agree. When it comes to drive line parts it's OEM, except engine oil. Years ago I had a Corolla with high mileage , over 300k, when the starter finally quit. The parts guy at the Toyota dealer warned me about after market starters for this but I didn't listen. I "saved" $150 on an...

I had a Corolla that went 17 years before the original starter went, alternator never went bad in all that time. Don't waste your money with that stuff, they last longer than you think.

I still have my original cap on, I just bought one for when I swap out the antifreeze sometime in the following weeks. You gotta ask what the difference is between the Mazda and say a Stant which is about half the price. Anyone know what the new rev was all about?

It's actually a common issue over many decades for many cars. As a heads up, Mazda will charge up to $34 for an OEM cap...ask me how I know...

2016 is one of the best years put out. Pay attention to possible EPB lock ups, they revised the brake caliper for that. Also, timing cover/oil pan leaks.

Check your radiator cap seal to see if it's swollen. When they get swollen they get stuck and tend to block the flow of coolant to the expansion tank causing excessive pressure in the system. Common problem.