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Since only one side is having issues, it's really doubtful it would be a relay. Circuits for flashers usually use a single relay for both left and right. If it was a flasher relay problem then both sides would fast blink. I would think everything from the battery to the Flasher (or BCM) is...

The socket the light bulbs go in. Seems like the fronts can be an issue as they corrode. TNS = tail, numberplate, sidemarker Here is the wiring diagram for the Mazda 5. I think it's for all through 2015 but am not sure. If you look, at the Hazard Wiring Switch and the turn switch in the...

Reading about other Mazdas, most solve fast blinking with new front bulbs or cleaning the contacts in the socket.

Rapid flashing is often an indication of a weak ground. Since you are saying that only the right side is having an issue, I would check the ground for the socket and the bulb on the front and back right side of the car. Otherwise, I looked in the Factory Service Manual, and I hope I am reading...

https://www.car-part.com/ I've used this site with great success. The dealer may not have stuff in stock, but they should be able to order just about any part for a 2012 still.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxPp09D56SY For the guy in the video, he got his working by unplugging and plugging the connectors back in to make better contact. When he went to clean up the contacts properly and really double check the whole thing, he found lots of minor issues from a prior...

I would trust that the CAM sensor is not the source of the problem then since you used a Mazda part. The computer P0340 code is telling you what is wrong. Coils, MAS and plugs aren't going to fix your issue. Potentially it will be worse if the new parts are faulty. Here is an easy guide to...

What brand sensor are you getting? Only buy OEM MAZDA sensors. All other sensors are trash. The aftermarket auto parts industry is on a race to the bottom. It's all fakes and counterfeits and made of garbage materials. Beyond that, if it's not the sensor, it's looking like an issue with the...

Tab part numbers (right Passenger Side) C235-50-664 (left driver side) C235-50-674

Outer beltline moldings for the rear window is usually what they are called. For a 2010 (left side\driver side) Mazda 5: C235-50-670A Comes with the clip. Should be about $40 from your local dealer. I see them for $32 from online Mazda dealers. Diagram shows that the tab comes with that part...

The best way? The absolute best way is to remove the seats from the car. Disassemble them. Cut the hog rings and remove the upholstery. Then in a bath tub use hot water, washing machine detergent and a stiff plastic bristle brush. Scub, rinse and repeat until clean. Clean the seat foam if...

For an engine to just quit like that while running, it's usually one of 2 things. Fuel related. Could be the pump has gone bad. Just because you hear it, doesn't really mean it's ok. You should have a fuel pressure test done. Timing related. Timing chain or its guides have issues. Crank...

Does this engine have a timing belt? If the belt goes, the computer won't know how to start the car, so no spark.

Year? Gas or diesel?

Take a string. Preferably a string that won't stretch. Loop it around where the belt you want should go. Measure string. Get a few belts around that size. Return what won't fit. Make sure the AC pulley isn't in the way of the new belt or you may have to remove the compressor.

Jesus. Is that a special battery? Never had a battery cost more than $150 with a free installation from a Big Box Auto Parts store.

Junkyard or aftermarket then. Look on craigslist or ebay for partouts and ask seller if they will sell the bracket. https://www.car-part.com/ I've used the above site to find parts for the Mazda 3 around me. Otherwise...now's a good time to make friends with a local welder. Not a bad thing...

Anything can be done. You're looking at $$$ for something that extensive if you're doing a full tear down and rebuild. I'm not even sure if you can significantly bore and stroke these engines. Modern engines are fairly thin walled. If you're going that far, then may as well add the turbo and...

Nothing more than a few HP here or there. It's tuned for maximum MPG. If you go with a different "tune" you will lose MPG and probably won't gain much more than a bit of throttle response. Most "performance" products sold actually hurt performance by confusing the ECU's metering algorithms...