Search results

Thanks for sharing! I'll probably do an analysis from Blackstone labs this time to confirm if it's indeed a coolant leak. Hopefully my car isn't toast lol

I did my oil analysis at 73K and apparently there's a coolant leak. I brought my vehicle to a mechanic 2 months ago and he did a pressure test but did not find any sources of a leak so I am not sure. I did put some UV dye in the coolant reservoir to see if the funny smell coming from my heater...

I didn't use the metal cut-off grinding wheel but I probably should have as it took a while to cut through the nut and each blade was destroyed during the process. I tried to focus on the washer portion of the nut and do a clean cut. I was successful but it was a very exhausting process that I...

A. OEM Parts Required (4) Stabilizer Link Nuts (9YB0-41-031): There is a very high probability that you will not be able to reuse your old nuts due to the conditions they have to undergo and there is a high probability that you will need to destroy the nuts on the either side (driver/passenger)...

Absolutely spot on 100%. I just attempted to use the Allen key with a box end 14 mm to remove the nut and then the bolt snapped and now it's free spinning. I'll probably try the Dremel/angle grinder and if that doesn't work out my next step would be the mechanic. This is one of those cases...

Hey there, I have some tips that might help you: To check tire tread, get this tire depth gauge ($6.00) from Amazon. It has the different color coding's on there to indicate whether or not the tire has enough tread or needs to be replaced. Typically, it's recommended to replace tires at 2 mm of...

4/3: Attempted to loosen the sway bar end link for the driver (rear) side but it got too dark so had to stop. Here's my observations: You will have an extremely difficult time removing the top bolt with a socket (impact or non-impact rated) using a 1/2 or 3/8 breaker bar/ratchet due to the...

Here are some jack pads that I have found and may help you guys. I've been using #1 for the past 2 - 3 weeks and I haven't had much issues with it. I have the HF Daytona 3 ton jack (square jack pad) and it fits perfectly. As for long term usage and reliability, I can't comment on that but I...

This video might help you.

The coupon is gone permanently lol

The materials and information presented below are subjective and based on my experiences and research. Use this as a guide and perform your own judgment/due-diligence to see what parts/method(s) work best for you. If you believe that there are any mistakes in this guide or other best practices...

I recently replaced all (4) rotors and pads yesterday with the Raybestos Element 3's along with a brake bleed. My setups below: Old: Fronts: Akebono ACT Ceramics Rotors: CarQuest Platinum Painted Rears: Mazda OEM Rotors: Mazda OEM OEM New: Fronts: Raybesto Element 3 Rotors: Raybeto Specialty...

Here are the OEM part numbers: Stabilizer Link Nut (9YB0-41-031): Need (2) per Sway Bar End Link. I bought a total of (8) since I purchased one for each wheel. Sway Bar End Link (KD35-34-170): Front (Driver/Passenger) Sway Bar End Link (KD31-28-190): Rear (Driver) Sway Bar End Link...

I'm close to 50/50 city/highway but the city roads are pretty crappy with uneven pavement/rough roads and random potholes everywhere.

Good analysis haha, I think so too :D I will probably do some inspecting on those parts you listed as well as suspension components now that you bring that up. I did place an order for the rear sway bar links and I'm not sure if I should purchase the fronts as well just in case but I figure I...

3/27 Update: I didn't have to use the M8 x 1.25 hex bolt at all for my brake replacement today but for anyone else that wanted to use the rotor bolt method instead of using the hammer, I will let you know that it does work after threading the bolt into the new rotor. I went with the M8 x 1.25...

Hi All, Replaced my brakes for all (4) wheels today and then noticed something that seemed odd. Upon closer inspection, it looks like my "stabilizer bar" is broken for the Passenger (Rear). That would probably explain some of the vibrations/tracking to the left on the road and possible clunks...