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As far as the trans goes, best to refill with the same amount you took out, measure the fluid when it's cold. Then back off your plywood on a level surface and check the fluid at the appropriate temperature, 122 degrees F. It won't matter too much with the others. There's lots of room underneath...

That Valvoline seems like amazing stuff.

Lots of in-depth conversations of synthetic oils on that forum enough to make your head spin.

Mobile 1 isn't a fully Group IV synthetic, hasn't been for quite a few years. They were 30% PAO a few years ago and since then that percentage has dropped. About the only true PAO oil I'm aware of is Ravenol, maybe HPL.

I miss those greasable ball joints, at least when the seal starts cracking you know you can get some lubrication in there.

Amsoil, currently using

Don't know, but I had mine done 2 years ago with Dormans (Aftermarket supplier). Drivers side ball joint was popping in and out already, had it replaced last week. I should've stuck with the Mazda OEMs. Yes, expensive, but the last ones lasted 9 years.

That's an interesting suggestion. I tend to let my old rotors pile up and them bring them to the city's recycle center. I may have to rethink that and head to the scrap yard instead. Those things have some pretty good weight when they pile up.

A torque wrench would do you well instead of cranking down...

I'm currently using Brembo pads with Brembo rotors, good combo, no dust, good stopping power, no noise.

try amazon...

Did you try spraying the control arm and sway bar bushings with silicone?

I just look for the ILSAC rating, latest one is 7a I believe

Now that the CAFE standards are being rolled back I think you're going to see a lot of this, it should be telling if car manufacturers start using thicker oils.

Honestly, if you plan on keeping the car for a long time, I wouldn't go past 5000 miles on an OCI. Amsoil is very good oil, 5w-30 Signature Series is what I'm currently using. Oil is relatively cheap compared to a engine replacement.

Paint has to cure, takes a few weeks to do that, you might want to check for any imperfections after this period like runs, dirt in the paint, etc. that won't show up in fresh paint.

A week after I got mine I was hit in the front end, had to get the front bumper cover replaced, the Soul Red color. The body shop I used match it phenomenally perfect. Look for a high end body shop, look for the I-CAR Gold Class rating to start. Matching the Soul Red color

no

I've owned 2 generation 1 CX5s, never noticed any abnormal shifting

Fluid level could be low