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Maybe your lights need to be re-aimed. Part of new car checkout service at the dealer is supposed to be properly aiming headlights, though I doubt anyone takes time to do that service. Oncoming traffic shouldn't have to be blinded.

I would say it wasn't the factory fill fluid, should've been a dark blue, not red. Looks like some one might have changed the fluid and put in either the wrong type or a non-Mazda brand equivalent.

Have you changed oil brands?

That is what is meant by a "recommendation"....

Yes, I started using it in my 2016 a year ago. The manual is only a recommendation.

That year had oil pan leak issues, had mine replaced under warranty a months into ownership.

I'd never go past 5,000 mile for an OCI if going the distance with your car (over 100k miles). I have gone to 7,500. but that's even too far IMO. Like the old saying "oil is cheap compared to engine work" . These guys have some pretty good stuff: and this in particular:

0w-20 is recommended according to the owners manual, not set in stone that you have to use it in warranty or out. It's your choice. I use 5w-30 year round.

2026 Mazda CX-5 spied for first time

Wouldn't use it, you don't know what could crop up after the warranty using this regarding wear.

Skip it....

Toyota has had a lot of problems the last few years with engines, transmissions, electronics, etc. I was a big fan of them in years gone by having owned quite a few, my Scion is virtually bullet proof still at 75k miles. But I'm no longer drinking the Kool Aid for their new stuff.

Just got a 2016.5 CX-5 - Tips, Tricks and MPG Just got a 2016.5 CX-5 - Tips, Tricks and MPG

Yeah, I, and others on this forum, could show a few articles testing to the contrary or backing it up, so who would be correct? At this point it's just conjecture IMO. Do whatever you think works for you. I always roll my eyes at the "let's solve this once and for all' statement, for anything. I...

No, it just broke the first time i used it, dealer said weak latch.

2016s had that problem as with mine. It's under warranty.

$750 now for rear brake and rotor replacement...every time I see some one quoting a dealer price for one of these jobs it gets higher and higher, seems like on a monthly basis. I paid less for a set of new tires last year. For comparison, a dealer quoted me $450 for rear brake replacement 2...

I've had a few instances where it stayed in 2nd at a complete stop, don't know why, maybe some kind of software glitch. For the most part it goes to 1st at a dead stop.

Wow, original post is over 9 years old! That 150 point inspection is really a gimmick IMO. I doubt the average dealer mechanic is going to go over the entire list thoroughly these days. I bought a CPO from Toyota and in reality it shouldn't have been one, quite a few things with the appearance...