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The ceramics seem to produce a lighter colored dust also, so less obvious to eye. Kleen wheels does make some dust shields for the MS3, both for the stock 10 spokers and for the RX8 5 spokes if you have a set (part #5122 for MS#, #5008 for RX8). I use them when I have real "dirty" pads (like...

RichB..one thing I forgot to add. Remove the clip holding the brake line to the strut so you can give the brakeline more slack. Allows you to line up the caliper with the new full thickness pads for easier insertion. With the line secured, it cocks the brake caliper just enough so you have to...

Chris @Hypertech...could you add a Cobb SRI (short ram intake) to your intake options. This one is probably 1 or 2 in popularity as an aftermarket intake. Have installed the Hypertech programmer and initial impression is very good. I initially had a Cobb AP with a Stage 1 tune since I plan on...

I have tried most everything on the street and road course track over time. I would give my overall nod to Carbotech XP8 pads (fronts..the MS3 rears don't really matter on the street) with blank rotors (cheaper the better)....great bite and modulation, very little cold start lack of grip, dirty...

If you look at the way the pads/caliper are setup, you'll see that the caliper can't describe that arc with the pads in place. If your rotors are happy as far as no real deep grooves (doubtful they have them unless you let a pad get down to the backing plate) and the brake pedal doesn't pulsate...

The pads don't reach all the way to the edge of the rotor so as they wear, the rotor gets a small ridge that the fully compressed pad won't slide over if you try to take the pads out with the piston NOT depressed a bit. No, all you need to remove are the 2 slide pins for the caliper pad carrier...

A 7mm allen hex will remove the slider pins behind the black plastic caps...they need 19-22 ft/lbs of torque when replacing. To push back the piston, remove the brake fluid filler cap. If you want to ease things, put your brake bleeder hose on the bleeder with it in your bleed bottle and crack...

Point taken..interesting theory. If sophisticated enough, I could see repetitive rich bumps making the long term trim want to lean out things a tad. Since the stock setup errors on the rich side for engine safety you would think that would help a bit on the HP side unless timing retard starts to...

The "are you running an MS3" was directed to Veritas who was providing some info and a dyno sheet on the Hypertech unit..didn't know if the work was done on a customer's car or his, that's all. I find it hard to believe that the Hypertech program sent to the MS3 owner will have an AFR in the...

A talk to Veritas says the AFR on his Hypertech ( I presume you are running a MS3, right?) at WOT is in the 10.5:1 range which seems pretty conservative to me. I picked up one of these programmers so I'll give ya'll my feedback...no dyno data obviously but I have a Scangauge and 40 years of...

Thanks for data...Hypertech's customer service was unable to supply any. I emailed you about your price BTW.

This product would certainly be better received if they cleared up things a bit..one site says "50 state approved" and another says "Not legal in CA". With the economy is the crapper, I would think their customer service would be more attuned to convincing customers to drop about half a G note...

Well, my talk with Hypertech's engineer went like this... "What AFR does the program run at WOT/max boost/"-------"Depends" "You're product description says you remove the WOT restriction..do you remove it 100% or partially"---------"Can't answer...confidential" "Your Tech Rep states you...

Still no reply from Hypertech despite an email today to follow up.........

Called Hypertech for a bit of info and got a "this is proprietary info" before I could get a word out! Shawn then loosened up a bit and said he would past my request along to the "Chief Engineer" after Shawn stated they didn't usually change the max boost levels to which I stated that their...

I based my decision on Cobb telling me their springs were OK to go on stock dampers which I translated into them being suitable for thew Koni FSD's

I have Koni FSD's with the Cobb springs...really no change in ride height and much improved DD performance. BTW, my alignment specs didn't need adjusting..rear the same and front still had slight neg toe-in.

Despite the FSD description of being soft and quite compliant over small irregularities, I find the MS3 with these Koni's is tighter from the get-go, on smooth and rough roads. I think things would have been to harsh if I had gone with Eibach springs instead of the stockers. Abrupt big bumps...

Bought a set of FSD's from SU...using stock springs on 08 MS3. Rebound dampening on the Koni's is far superior to the practically nonexistent rebound on the stock dampers. Driving aggressively with the stock setup would just load the suspension so when you hit a bump your compression travel was...

I'll take it for $65.00 shipped...let me know your PP account ID. I had one and sold because of the vibrations but I can't stand the shifting slop with the stock mount, albeit, that isn't the only reason for the shifting being less than precise when the engine is at full torque. Addendum...