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I typically used a small (about 1/8" tipped) screwdriver to get in behind. Otherwise craftsman sells a nail set and chisel combo that has some small chisels that work well. But I almost always used a flat screwdriver when I bent them out to release the lock nuts. You don't have to get them...

if the date and time process through the wifely approval unit and don't conflict with my race schedule I'd be interested.

no EGR means slightly cooler intake temps which for a turbo car is good for reducing detonation. That's about it.

you should be able to get it in the drain plug without an issue and not hit anything. easy way to check though is to simply measure the distance and poke up in to see if you hit a structure. from what I recall though there is a fair bit of clearance above the drain plug area.

you need it... and you can't buy just that part...

I have swapped diff's multiple times without replacing bearings. If you PULL them you HAVE to replace them, but if you are just moving the differential assembly with the bearings on it you are fine. You should technically check the lash, but many people get away without doing as such.

the oil seal in the first post is the axle seal. F003.... looks right.

yellow light is steady on when the throttle position is trimmed properly. always blinks when cranking.

Both are about keeping the intake charge cooler. Nominally you get some power increase form the increased runner length moving the power band a little on the IM spacer, but the major issue was just simply keeping things cooler and they made a good difference to be sure. We did discontinue...

updated and ordered. BoostedMP3 #04 (<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Middletown</st1:City>,<st1:State w:st="on">N.Y.</st1:State></st1:place>) Blue 80,000 Miles-Born Feb.14,2001 julius77 #11 (Vancouver...

this might be the right one but is way too expensive: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SMP-KS79&N=700+115&autoview=sku

should be hard to damage the sensor. It is a bosch sensor and the part numbers should be right on it. You just have the regular two wire one correct? Little doughnut thing? It's best to go direct to John for a single part like that takes a long time and adds a bunch of cost if I get it for you...

Must be something new/big that came up then as he wasn't working on it when I talked with him previously. Hopefully he gets back to it soon though as a lot of people keep asking for units.

Hey good, glad one of our regular customer types got it :)

The more expensive dash unit doesn't store maps? LOL. I thought all the items did... the dash unit must be a display only then and not a programming item. Interesting/silly. we never deal in them so I don't know their specs etc, just ASSumed :)

beavis should be able to measure his hand unit for you.

The hand unit is smaller and you could probably get that to fit. It does save maps too, 4 just like the dongle and the dash unit.

those that were interested in parts... there is a thread of some of my leftovers.. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123722755

And humorously I had a girl call me about 3 months ago and chew me a new one for having my car parked in front of her house on the street when I was trying to sell it and it blocked slightly the view of her for rent sign from one direction. She was SUPER b****y and I live basically across the...

but anyway to your original point/question. The maps that are early in the thread are the same base maps roughly we use today. Some things have been tweaked and cleaned up to provide a little better continuity across more cars, but they aren't changed largely. The unit you got should have a...