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something goofy with the crank wiring then most likely. Is your tach working? Double check the fuse on the cigarette lighter as well.

Not sure what you guys are doing, but it's wrong. You shouldn't need any modification to the alternator or wiring if the Microtech is wired correctly. My instructions for wiring the Microtech are published out there somewhere now and the alternator works fine in that configuration. The stock...

Sorry, but that is just plain and simple incorrect. The alternators are able to support the system without issue and the little bit of juice it bumps out during a push start is typically sufficient. If you had absolutely ZERO battery it might be very difficult, but just requires more speed to...

I was lucky enough to have a laptop that the battery could handle about 2 minutes on it's own... and that was it, but enough to allow restarts when tuning! :) Warm idle is usually pretty reasonable to settle out and I think my MP3 ran almost identical to you for warm idle, but I didn't do that...

Everything he said. You can run a pretty crazy amount of timing at very low vacuum levels like idle. I have had finicky engines need 22 degrees or better at idle to stabilize. Usually 10-15 is normal for idle. I wouldn't flinch at running your motor at 15-18. Also, very rich AFR's tend to...

It's called hunting. Most of the time it indicates the car is too lean in that area. Not sure if you have a wideband on the car or not, but push up the idle AFR's in those areas (using the water temp as suggested above is a reasonable way to do it). The other thing that can cause it as well...

nope, no problem. We officially closed NSN Motorsports fully this year so I can work on other things. So any and all Microtech information is free to get published including the install manuals we protected previously. Thanks! Steve

One other way to set the distances if you are doing it by clearances is to buy the special clay strips that you place in and when they get compressed you can tell by their width the clearance of where they are. Can't remember the name of the stuff but it is common/standard stuff for doing...

The other side of the answer is that a lot of people never did the pre-load adjustments. It can result in more bearing wear and poor gas mileage, or some slop in the transmission, but most cases it was "close enough" and worked out for those that did it. What you have posted and the information...

Sorry I didn't make it guys! The walk ran long and I had family in from out of town and we ended up doing lunch together so I wasn't able to get free in time. Brian said there is something going on for Holy Hill this coming weekend, so we'll see if I do any better for that one, but I have some...

I should be able to meet you guys at the Troll. I'll text Brian when I head. Look forward to catching up with a few of you. Later! Steve

yep, Still alive... :) I live on the South side of Madison now (by the Target on PD), not Mount Horeb any more. I'm trying to sort out my Sunday schedule because right now it looks like: 8:00-9:30 Cars and Coffee (at Barriques on PD usually is more 8:30 to 10:30, but I'm trying to do the...

LOL. I'm still around, just not on forums much. My wife has a Mazda 3... I have something else fun ;) but not Mazda. My MP3 is still around, owned by a guy down in the Janesville area. I believe it is still running which is amazing considering the guy that bought it. I'm supposed to do some...

subbing...

The TPS really doesn't even have to be accurate. It is only used/comes in to play for idle settings. It's not abnormal to see the TPS_Cal flash in the status, but it shouldn't happen all the time. Basically you should get an orange light on the microtech when car is off and calibrated...

The Microtech allows for "tap in" connections on the TPS, that was part of what we did custom/different than everyone else with the NSN models. They were electrically different than models you could buy elsewhere and it was to solve issues like that more cleanly.

This is normal on the microtech going to 99% way too early on the depression of the pedal.

Sorry but the dealer is an idiot then. The part numbers look right, but I don't have access where I am to my system to verify. They should easily be able to look them up on the transmission part diagram for you, and the same for the lock nuts. the transmission seals are identical on each...

yes you need the seals. All but guaranteed to leak if you don't replace them, and they tend to get torn during the removal. Locking nuts are more of a maybe. If you are good at removing them without damaging the bent tab too much you COULD get away with using them (and they are accessible with...

shane is correct. You'll wreck gears before the axles are a real issue unless you are doing regular clutch drops for drag racing.