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Additives are cheaper.

You didn't say what year car. If it's over 3 years old, and even if it isn't, the battery would be the first place to start. . Easiest thing you could do would be to replace it.

I saw it on another forum from a Mazda tech a few years back, don't know if it's true or true for the newer models.

Oil Control Valve, replace it. Yours actually doesn't look that bad. Many posts about it on this forum, do a search. 2016~2023: - CX-9 Oil seep on top, corner closest to passenger

Maybe another 1 post wonder?

Common? No. Let's start with your battery...how old is it?

2 thoughts here. Carfax is only reliable if the servicing garage chooses to report any bad incidents about the vehicle, they're not required to. Make sure the "owner" wasn't a rental agency. Those cars rack up a lot of miles...and abuse.

If you go the dealership route, ask for a master tech to look at it.

Maybe a bad VV timing unit?

That is different. Maybe because there' no dipstick? The procedure states 7 liters, but I think they probably mean total fluid amount in the trans for component replacement or major repair.

No. Atmosphere has nothing to do with internal oil temps. Oil temp at 122 degrees is 122 degrees.

Filters made in Thailand are usually pregreased, at least everyone I've used over the years were. No need to use oil.

Probably because you can get away with using the dino oil as it's a little cheaper than the synth.

You won't. 122 isn't the normal operating range. As the temp goes up so does the fluid level, trans fluid expands quite a bit with heat. My drain and fill was about 3.25 quarts and everything looked good according to the stick.

Yeah, this guy has some amazing info. Good info on the Ultra Platinum.

Curious. Does your government have anything in place like the CAFE standards here in the US? "CAFE: Corporate Average Fuel Economy standards are regulations in the United States, first enacted by the United States Congress in 1975, after the 1973–74 Arab Oil Embargo, to improve the average fuel...

The early oci would have nothing to do with the cracking problems or design flaws in the T engines. Has to do with preventing early internal wear in the cylinder and rings found in turbo engines, hence the early spark plug change interval. Not that I'd do 3k miles, that is a bit wasteful, I'd...

I wouldn't follow a recommendation to do 8 to 10k oil changes on a normal 2.5 NA engine let alone on a turbo, that's just crazy IMO, certified lab or not. Let's see what those lab results look like around the 100k mile mark or even 75k. 38k miles is still relatively young and buildup around oil...

Yep, transitioned to 0w-30 last winter and am now running 5w-30 in both cars which called for 0w-20. Won't go back. And the days of sticking with one brand are over for me seeing how oil companies like to change recipes from time to time.

I see a lot of comments saying the Ultra Platinum, which is hard to get around here, is a quiet oil. The regular Platinum 0w-20 is what I used. Haven't seen many comments about that.