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Can't help if you don't post your car year, or trim level. Drive train info might help too.

For one, what year car is this? What engine? What transmission? P2096 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1 Since the sensors were replaced...or at least I hope they were, then it's an actual LEAN problem. Too much AIR and not enough FUEL. You need to have a shop diagnose it...

Not overheating? I would suspect a blown head gasket overheating the coolant and it bubbling into the overflow. But if the car isn't overheating...I dunno what that is other than a bad radiator cap.

Get the battery load tested if you didn't load test it. Clean the terminals on the battery. Check cables to see if they are corroded internally. Check all engine and body grounds for corrosion.

Good chance you have a vacuum leak letting in too much air. Do the old vacuum leak test trick to see. 15-20 years is about when all the rubber hoses in an engine bay get rock hard and form cracks\leaks. Otherwise check all things related to air intake. If still nothing then I would move to...

Well, for one the 140kmile Mazda 5 hasn't been changed from the looks of it. Otherwise it was manuals from the 80's 90s that all used ATF. Never had an issue with them with a good number of miles and thrashing them. Replaced a few clutches though. Automatics were another story. All other...

Why do you think the TCM is bad? It may be telling you the truth. Solenoids probably need replacing.

I have never needed to change fluid in a manual transmission. Automatic, sure. But manual? The fluid doesn't really wear out.

All the ports inthe Mazda 5 and Mazda 3 have gone flaky and they've all been the contacts in the port. Various fixes like tin foil glued in the bottom, and tape around the usb adapters, etc have been done to make them work reliably. If they start to be an issue again I'm going to just hard...

Then he had a bad engine ground. the TB is already grounded.

Never go solely on numbers printed or stamped on a part. Those are considered ENGINEERING numbers and NOT part numbers. They are indeed similar and usually clue you into the area of the car but are RARELY able to be cross referenced.

Get a wiring diagram and check all your GROUNDS. This could be a bad ground somewhere affecting the PCM.

Sounds like you have a drain somewhere. If it happens again, disconnect ALL aftermarket devices. I have ripped out countless aftermarket junk out of cars and electrical problems always evaporate.

Going to add this experience we just had: Mom's MAZDA 5 2015 got the mushy brakes. Pedal would go near the floor and still stop the car fine and actuate the abs but it was definitely uncomfortable. It just felt like your brakes were almost gone. Took it to a local tire shop who does lots of...

No idea. I only have a Mazda 5 and Mazda 3 and just used a rear sway bar from the Mazda 3 to the Mazda 5. End links on the Mazda 3 and 5 look the same. No idea on the Mazda Speed

It could be a bad synchro. It could be the clutch is out of alignment and 2nd gear is picky about it. My opinion (and what I practice) is to rarely downshift into 2nd and almost never into first. If it is grinding when upshifting, that's a problem. My dad would complain I was wearing out my...

Same end links. It's a direct swap. This is for the rear sway bar. I didn't do the front. I saw a thread somewhere on it and I just got it from Mazda. Don't have the part number handy.

I swapped in the beefier Mz3 rear swaybar in on the Mz5. I wonder how much beefier the Ms3 is to the Mz3? I noticed no difference in mounting.

Might be a motor mount gone bad too.

You won't get more power from "breaking in" an engine. That's just silly. If you want, you can do a few EARLY oil changes. A new engine will wear a bit more early on and an early oil change might help a little to keep the oil in its best shape. Oil is cheap compared to an engine and extra...