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Pretty sure your transmission has issues...especially if it won't reverse. I really doubt an ECM is going to fix anything. One thing you could work at is to get the wiring diagram for your car and focus on the P0757 code. I would check all grounds and power wires throughout the car as well as...

I agree. I wouldn't worry about it just yet. But it does sound like the Pedal position sensor or throttle position sensor is going bad which makes sense from your symptoms and code.

Your Oil pan has a hole in it? Usually leaks are from the gaskets. Not sure they look different to me. They are not oriented the same so it's hard to tell.

I doubt it. There were a lot of new lines added to the body. Maybe the bumper underneath will fit. But I doubt the bumper cover.

What's an Engine Management Light? Is that the Check Engine Light, or CEL? What codes is it throwing?

If the fuse is hot\warm hours after driving...pull it before you burn your car down. When a fuse blows, do NOT replace it without checking that circuit. Fuses do NOT blow for no reason. My guess is your heater motor has gone bad and pulling too much current. You'll need a multimeter to make...

I got these from MazdaSwag.com and have not put them on just yet (2008 Mazda 3 w/2.3L). Here are the part numbers: 1F20-14-310D Oil Filter Housing $17.12 1 $17.12 LF02-14-342 Oil Filter Housing Gasket $3.62 1 $3.62

It's probably not the cold air intake but those things are pointless on modern cars and screw with the MAF. If you have the original intake, I would put it on to rule it out. The engine computer is saying you are getting too much air or too little fuel in the system. Check all vacuum lines...

Year? Trim? Transmission? Engine?

Did you just buy the car? Sounds like someone changed out the ignition cylinder with a new key.

You can go to partsouq.com, put in your vin and start making a parts list from the diagrams. There is a lot of weatherstripping on these cars. You may not want to replace all of it.

Seems like a lot of people chase this sound. It's probably in the rear shocks or the upper mounts. The rear upper mounts are notorious for cracking. The shocks and struts seems to make noise when they get worn too. If it's been doing this for 4 years and isn't getting worse...not sure I'd...

Gotcha. Surprising. I'd just buy some material then. Maybe they don't put it on any longer because it all disintegrated on the shelf.

You can either buy the cover new which will come with new material (it is all one assembly) or you can rip that stuff out and throw it away (it's not needed) or you can buy fireproof insulation and probably reattach it like the old stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBWXRLLH/

I call the dealer and give the parts guy my vin. He looks it up and gives me the part number. Never been steered wrong yet. The dealer has a DIFFERENT database than you or websites have access to online. If I don't buy from them I use the part number online. The parts guys never care.

You don't have to remove or touch the rack to replace the struts. I've done a Mazda 3 and 5 and didn't have to deal with the rack when replacing struts. I don't think you will save much on labor. If the struts aren't leaking you're probably fine, otherwise replace them AND replace the top...

Steering fluid is just ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid. That fluid expands greatly when cold versus being warmed up or hot. As long as the level is in the normal range, you're fine. Even if it's a bit lower than normal, you're fine. Power Steering is very forgiving on the fluid level.

Looking into it. You'll need to post how many speakers you have. What kind of steering wheel do you have. You have an automatic based on the one bezel but which one? The 2000 or the 2500? What country of origin is this car? CD or No CD? Best thing might be to take all this info into Mazda...

For a 2006, the part number is: C2Y6-43-7AZ (or C2Y6-43-7AZB; C2Y6437AZA) https://parts.mazdausa.com/p/Mazda__/UNIT--HYDRAULIC-ABS/105379871/C2Y6-43-7AZ.html Made ONLY for 2006-2007 Mazda 5. I'm thinking that the Mazda 5 is unique in the drive train and weight combination and it requires an...

Normally, I'd say that if the part looks the same across the brands, it will work but I looked up the part "C5Y3-43-7AZB" and it is ONLY for Mazda 5 2012-2015 2.5L engine. That is too too specific for my liking. Meaning that I was expecting it to fit earlier years and other models like the...