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I tell the shop to take the locking lugs off and just chuck them in the trash and put on regular ones. Thieves just use conical sleeved impact sockets that work on anything.

OEM only. Get them from an online Mazda dealer. Then they are usually about 30% cheaper. The cheap Densos on Amazon and ebay are fakes.

If the timing cover is leaking...time to pull it and find out the real reason. A timing cover isn't supposed to hold any fluids in.

The shields help with mpg and road debris. On the two Mazdas I have, I have repaired one and replaced the other that was ripped off some point in its history prior to my ownership. The parts weren't expensive and the only issue I had was one of the front attachment bolt mounts was ripped out...

Go to Partsouq.com. Put in your VIN (very important). Then click on the diagram you need and get the part number. For my 2010 MZ5, (I think it's probably the same for you) uses this diagram...

I go to Partsouq.com, put in my cars VIN (very important) and then use the diagrams to find the part numbers. I take the part numbers to an online discount Mazda dealer like MazdaSwag.

Shouldn't be the brake switch. That's causing the one to work. Your first instinct is right, check your fuses.

Well, if you really flooded the cowl vents, then next would be checking the Windshield then I think.

Not with these but with other cars. Especially old old cars. I had a '67 Cougar that pissed on my left foot when it rained. I just lived with it. But it applies to any car really. Always test any fix a mechanic does. In this case, the mechanic was lazy and didn't run a hose test after his...

Yeah, a 6 year old battery on its last legs could do that. Modern cars require a solid power source for those pesky electronics to keep chooching.

Usually that means you have a hole rusted in the cowl. If so, it'll need to be patched.

I have used this site for my Mazda 3: https://www.car-part.com/ I do a few different searches and look for pics of cars that look to have the parts I need. They don't always list every single part on the car. Good luck.

If you want it perfect, yeah, you'll need a large area resprayed. Reds and Blue metallics are a total b**** to match and blend. You have to use tricks along the edges of panels to fool the eye. See what a PDR guy can do. Some of those guys can work near miracles. Or...just ignore it. Stuff...

That sounds like a weak alternator and battery to me. I can't see how a TCM will do that.

My mom's car (Mazda 5 2015) had all front rotors and pads replaced last summer by a third party shop. I pulled the front pads and rotors and replaced them a month or so ago with OEM pads and rotors ordered from MazdaSwag. There was excessive pulsing in the pedal and excessive wear on the pads...

Clean the MAF....clean the throttle body. Clean the IAC. Start with that.

You need to ONLY use OEM MAF sensors. It's well known that all the non-OEM MAFs simply do not work. This really goes for ALL sensors. Clean your old one correctly with MAF cleaner and put it back in. Regardless, this points more to the air temperature sensor and not a MAF. MAF doesn't...

For the P2004 did you double check the connection shown in this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPWyBGNe1DA Otherwise, you probably need to remove that part and test the solenoid or just replace it. Not sure exactly what it is but it looks like when it has no power the computer throws...

https://www.kbb.com/obd-ii/p0421/ Looks like the sensors are telling you your CAT is going bad. To me the computer is probably acting correctly. When you clear the codes, then start things up, it probably waits a bit to throw anything because it's relearning from the reset. But by then the...

Well, get the leak sorted and all first. Then bleed it. See if it gets better. Then bleed it some more. I do not know the process. Regarding the spongy brakes, there is a valve that gets stuck in the ABS module and no one wants to pay for. The part is $1100 but it's often the answer when...