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In 2022 I changed the sway bar end links. Following months later were the lower control arms (torn bushings and torn leaking BJ boots) using OEM Mazda. Although not badly worn yet the tie rod ends also got replaced due to torn boots since they are not expensive and an alignment was going to be...

Protruding tabs should snap into a (square/rectangular) hole in a "bracket " portion of the strut. Check the other side for reference assuming it too hasn't detached. My driver side one kept detaching years ago so I just zip tied them to something adjacent( some kind of "bumper thing" ? ---...

As stated above, take it back to the dealer to let them solve it.. And didn't you notice this during a test drive before purchase. And did the dealer actually drive it or just check alignment when you took it back. It shouldn't be your problem to solve.

Pish tosh, poppycock. If they're offering a kit at that price it ought to provide some real illumination.

There's "memory steer" that can also be caused by sticking ball joints and tie rod ends. Had it happen on a previous car. The steering wouldn't stay returned to natural center. Would correct left and it would stay stuck, then return to right and same. Constantly correcting from left or right...

The belt most likely doesn't need replacing. As I posted earlier, the dealers seem to automatically want to replace belts even with low(er) mileage. My tensioner leaked at 29k miles and the dealer quoted new belts( yes, water pump belt too) as part of the job. As you said...... something about a...

Good catch! This smells even worse since they're already removing those parts as part of the warranty repair.

Interesting. Thanks for the clarification on the pads never changed.

I'll second that. On previous cars the fronts wore a lot faster than rears.

Well, I would think that if you read the above conversations that it probably isn't in your best interest financially to have the dealer do the job for$574. I find it suspect that the belt (assuming serpentine belt) is cracked at 36,000 miles. Maybe (that's maybe) some oil from the tensioner...

I remember that rear brake pads have a material thickness of 6 mm when new. With a 2 mm minimum thickness (time to change) that leaves 4 mm of usable wear. So, 5mm would indicate more than 50% pad life remaining. So here it gets interesting assuming front and rear pads have the same mileage on...

Makes me wonder if there is a problem in the steering rack or the electric assist (on the steering column under the dash) has a centering problem.

With that amount of mileage there's no telling what the source is. Rather than zero-in on one particular item, thorough full undercarriage inspection, front to back might expose various things worn and needing attention soon.

The OP mentions squealing under braking. Could be the normal squealing alert from the "scraper/squealer" affixed to the brake pad doing it's job indicating pad material is getting low.

I haven't been following this thread but just went back to the first page of this very lengthy thread and read what the OP posted. Summary of my thoughts. 1) this is a mess 2) the YOKO's (G91) same as I had..... suck. They ride harsh. That's why they got changed at 3k miles. Subaru owners with...

Just as a follow up and reminder. Tires pressures need adjusting with seasonal changes. Cold weather drops the pressure and warm weather increases it. Daily temperature changes make a difference. The rule of thumb is 1 psi change (up or down) per 9*F change. The tires at 35 psi on a cool 60* F...

As mentioned above, the CX-5 is tuned a bit stiffer for handling. It's what helps to make you feel like your are "driving" instead of operating an appliance. Regarding the Pirelli's, experiment a little with different tire pressures. Try them at 36 psi ( cold, before driven) and go from there...

I posted above that my car always runs good on Costco 87. I didn't think to mention the one time I used the high test (thought it is 93 instead of 91). It ran "OK". Rather surprised. Never bought it again. Like the 87 better. Now Costco gas here is supplied by Marathon whose gasoline, over the...

Last year when gassing up at Costco I chatted with the pump attendant. He pointed out 2 additional tanks and said that Costco has double additives in that they put in a second additive beyond what's already in the gasoline. This must be the Lubrizol. Perusing the third document linked above...

Interesting fix. Glad you resolved it without much expense.