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Thanks! I wasn't familiar with reprogramming. So hard shifting in cold weather is more of a bug?

Is it worth trying in the current scenario (cold weather and new-to-op car)? If not, what is the reprogramming that Yo'sDad was referring to? 😁

The reprogramming mentioned above *is NOT what I thought* can be found here: Thread 'Transmission reset/relearn procedure for 2016 Mazda CX-5' DIY - Transmission reset/relearn procedure for 2016 Mazda CX-5

For my CX-3, the blue light goes out when the coolant temp gets up to 130. Then it stays steady around 195 unless traffic slows. The ATF temp, on the other hand, climbs very slowly. It was still below 100 when I was ten minutes into a drive and at highway speed.

If the temp gets that low my legs will need more time to warm up. 🥶

Folks here would want to know how cold it was. I haven't dealt with anything below 35°F. 🙂

I am on my first round of VRP 5w30 with OEM filter. 2K more miles to go in 5K interval. Next filter will have a nylon cage. 😬

There was nothing alarming. The magnet had some fine hair on it but the filter was in good shape. The very first D/F was after 153K miles (my bad) when shifting became sluggish. The report was posted in the tranny fluid analysis thread. If you have done D/F regularly and shifting is smooth...

I replaced the filter at close to 160K miles mainly because one shop told me that the pan was leaking. It was a task that I dreaded and took 2+ months of mental prep to be ready. Trust issues made me the person I am today. 😅

I have seen bigger filters on bigger cars and thought the oil filter on ours is adequate. 🤷 Those who use after market oil filters are usually familiar with the larger size that still fits. I have used all sorts of after market filters and while they all look about the same size on the outside...

Been driving around with 3 extra cables and still haven't obtained the readings yet. It looks like I am more muscles than brains. 😭

My car wouldn't start if the MAF sensor was disconnected. 😅

Yes, I reset the shifting pattern after filling with red fluid. Do you mean it doesn't shift right after your drain/fill with Aisin FZ, or that you aren't comfortable yet? 😅

My first drain/fill (on a 2017 CX-3) was with the wrong fluid, red Idemitsu M5. Within a week or two I did a second drain/fill with the Aisin FZ and two more rounds after that. Not sure what harm comes from the mix of old OEM fluid and red, they mix fine, no jelly or sludge. I didn't do a flush...

I would have been ok if my speedo stops at 90. 60-80 right at the top, and nothing after 90. Give me engine temp or oil pressure in that space. 🤷

It says to wait at least five minutes. I check whenever I want to, sometimes ten hours after. I wonder if this procedure is to make sure that the new oil gets into the new filter too.

Ideally the open hose on your overflow tank should point downward. If you keep the level below max in the overflow, there shouldn't be any excess coming out of it.

My understanding is that the overflow tank is the same thing as the reservoir. The radiator (under the cap with the PSI rating) becomes pressurized when the car is running. When coolant in the radiator expands and reaches a certain pressure, the cap allows the excess to enter the overflow. When...

Thank you ALL especially AL! Being in a warm climate, the wires are probably OK. I have put away the extra cables for now and will focus on driving. 😁

I have never seen anything like this before. It sounds like you've done all that there is to do. I read that it might fix itself: 😬 I thought I included a Reddit thread about this problem on Hyandais. 🤔