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I added some magnets I got from Amazon and left the latch in place. It works great, better than it did with the latch...

Those plugs have risen from around $12-14 to over $17 @. They are still cheaper than Mazda OEM prices

I can recall a couple of times when I checked the oil and it was really low, but I know there was more oil in there... it seems kind of unreliable to only rely on the dipstick reading because for some reason the oil doesn't always show up the same on the dipstick. I usually know how much is in...

here's the hood solar panels I saw ... Hood Solar Panel

Stuck solenoid on the starter?

We can hope that the dealer used the set from the new car for diagnostic purposes, and checked all of the suspect tires to find the out of round ones.

Are the Bose door speakers 2 ohm?

The tire doesn't look unsafe to drive on it or anything. A depth gauge would show how much wear the tire has on each edge, for comparison.

I first noticed the effect different driving habits make on a previous car with variable valve timing (VVT). If I had been driving in town using generous throttle the trip later on the highway would seem to be affected. After many miles of highway driving with a light foot it seemed the highway...

If you put in a 5 qt jug and a new filter some of the oil would go into the filter and then is there when you remove it, so consider that as well. I usually try to change the oil before 5k.

Here's a thread that references the STB for the 2016 rear calipers. It doesn't have a pdf of the STB but there are details about the parts. https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/2016-cx-5-rear-caliper-tsb.123880393/

If you find a dragging brake, try cleaning and relubing the caliper guide pins. I had issues with one of mine sticking a bit but no more problems since I lubed it.

After driving at higher speeds, stop and feel each hub and wheel to see if there is any overheating. Overheating could be brakes, but also other parts like the bearings. Front-end alignment might cause some drag if it is not right.

Yes the NGK 94124 are for the NA. I know the genuine Mazda branded ones are a lot more than that.

They are almost $16 now on Amazon. Some of the bad reviews make me think some people buy a set, then return (phony) merchandise in the NGK boxes and the Amazon vendor doesn't check. One person got a set of Autolite plugs. While most of the reviews are positive it seems like there could be a...

From what I've read, those LCAs are very difficult to change. Maybe it will get worse and then be easier to find what is causing the clunk. It seems like I've read all kinds of things that can cause a clunk... shock mounts, various nuts and bolts that need to be retorqued, things that are hard...

I got a pair from Autozone for my '86 626 Sedan because of a damaged boot, probably around 150k miles. I wasn't driving many miles at the time (<4mi from work) so in retrospect I should have regreased and installed a new boot. The ones from autozone started making more noise ( I moved and was...

I've seen a product consisting of flexible solar panels on the hood, and the cable runs down through the windshield cowl to enter through the door area. I saw it on facebook, but I can't recall the name. Another place might be where the cables for the trailer lights exit under the rear bumper.

Do you have a picture?

Yeah, if you have an engine that consumes a noticeable amount of oil keeping the sump up the the full mark might be a good idea. Definitely if you are driving 400-500 miles a day in the summer. Otherwise your engine won't know the oil is only halfway between the marks, although the oil...