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Got my DDMWorks intake and short shifter today :) Also got an oil sample kit from Blackstone Labs so I can take an oil sample(0w20 Pennzoil Platinum running a PureOne filter) and evaluate engine wear/etc. Will be sending it off when I change oil one of the next 2 weeks, and will install the...

I won't miss putting it on :pp You should actually register to run the event on the 18th.

Probably just feeling the clutch fork pivoting if the lube dried up some. You can lube the fork at the outside tip easily where the external slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork. I wouldn't worry about it at all.

Auto-xed last Sunday with the TSCC, had a great time, 35th in raw time and 18th in PAX of 76. http://www.tidewatersportscarclub.com/results/2015/150920_results.html Felt good, need to up the shock valving front and rear. Closer to dialing it in so I can feel comfortable looking elsewhere for...

For starters anything on the wheel added needs to go through the clock spring. So you need at min the harness that is NORMALLY used for cruise/volume/etc for the wheel side, and then cut the wires on the column that go to the clock spring back to the ECM and audio unit normally to run into the...

There is no idle adjustment as its done with the electronic throttle. Most likely your throttle body needs cleaned, and its sticking and causing it to stall. Search for throttle cleaning DIYs as its been covered.

Whoa whoa whoa... Hold the phone. % of what? Measure the pad friction material with a tire tread depth gauge(or end of a set of measuring calipers). Most pads start at 10-12/32(8 to 9.5mm metric) or so. Normally want to replace by 2/32(1.5mm). Sooner for track use. I'd like to see...

To the OP: how hilly is it in your area? Elevation? I went from never able to get more than 32-33mpg living in Dayton Ohio to now commuting 100mi/day and averaging no less than 36mpg. It's damn near flat, and I'm at sea level now(Ohio was roughly 1000ft where I was at). Driving 70mph normally...

Light spray with silicone spray is needed. Steel wool is unnecessary.

Sounds equivalent to Permatex #24125 ceramic brake lube, been using it at work with good success. And it comes with a brush so that's nice. It's purple so it has that going for it too I guess? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/?tag=m20b7-20

That appears to be the stuff.

That was me. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123839236-Anybody-else-bled-the-brakes-on-their-Mazda2 For ABS bleeding without a scan tool, bleed like normal, put wheels back on, go drive on a dirt or gravel road, stop hard to lock up/activate ABS on all 4 wheels to cycle the ABS...

George if you come down to VA Beach some time you're welcome to see how my car feels with 550/450 springs and only a rear bar. I like it a LOT. I am planning on getting some 300# springs to ride nicer on the street, the only place I dislike it is the whoops and expansion joints in the Hampton...

What kind of update was that? lol! What was the fix/problem?

Sounds like an ignition related problem. Likely a bad coil pack. Out of curiosity, try unplugging the MAF sensor, this will force it to run in open loop. See if it still stumbles the same. The U100 Is a communication code. Sometimes those will set if other modules rely on data from other...

Pull the valve cover and look for sludge. It's easy enough to do to put your mind at ease. Or confirm the worst. To go 20k+ without BAD stuff would be pretty unbelievable, if it was really neglected you will know it when the valve cover is off. In my experience 12k intervals is where big...

I'll be following. I agree about other things taking up time. I'm commuting 50min to work, and anywhere between 80-120 min home depending on traffic and I'm just pooped by the time I get home let alone a chance to relax on the weekends.

It's Mazda's own CAN protocol probably for most stuff aside from the stuff regulated to one of the ISO standards. I don't think you get how complex a full CANBUS really is. There are two wires that go to 4-6 modules or something like that in our 2, those two wires tell each module literally...

Definitely sounds like low charge may be the issue. Mine is starting to get "meh" at idle in super hot weather but not cycling wildly. You could most likely get it evacuated and charged and not have any problems for several more years. Remember to instruct whoever does it to pull a vacuum for...