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No. Atmosphere has nothing to do with internal oil temps. Oil temp at 122 degrees is 122 degrees.

Filters made in Thailand are usually pregreased, at least everyone I've used over the years were. No need to use oil.

Probably because you can get away with using the dino oil as it's a little cheaper than the synth.

You won't. 122 isn't the normal operating range. As the temp goes up so does the fluid level, trans fluid expands quite a bit with heat. My drain and fill was about 3.25 quarts and everything looked good according to the stick.

Yeah, this guy has some amazing info. Good info on the Ultra Platinum.

Curious. Does your government have anything in place like the CAFE standards here in the US? "CAFE: Corporate Average Fuel Economy standards are regulations in the United States, first enacted by the United States Congress in 1975, after the 1973–74 Arab Oil Embargo, to improve the average fuel...

The early oci would have nothing to do with the cracking problems or design flaws in the T engines. Has to do with preventing early internal wear in the cylinder and rings found in turbo engines, hence the early spark plug change interval. Not that I'd do 3k miles, that is a bit wasteful, I'd...

I wouldn't follow a recommendation to do 8 to 10k oil changes on a normal 2.5 NA engine let alone on a turbo, that's just crazy IMO, certified lab or not. Let's see what those lab results look like around the 100k mile mark or even 75k. 38k miles is still relatively young and buildup around oil...

Yep, transitioned to 0w-30 last winter and am now running 5w-30 in both cars which called for 0w-20. Won't go back. And the days of sticking with one brand are over for me seeing how oil companies like to change recipes from time to time.

I see a lot of comments saying the Ultra Platinum, which is hard to get around here, is a quiet oil. The regular Platinum 0w-20 is what I used. Haven't seen many comments about that.

I've had great results with Castrol and Mobile 1. Pennzoil didn't cut it for me even though I've used it for decades in all my cars. Engine ran noisier and used it.

If he is master tech status, you can't discount him that easily.

Going back to this master tech on Reddit...point number 5: Reddit - Dive into anything "How to maintain my CX-5 so it'll last?" Transmission+differential+transfer case fluid every 50K miles (remember, there is no such thing as "lifetime fluid", manufacturer says there is just because of EPA...

Seriously? 7500 miles OCI for a turbo?? And they say conventional oil is ok for this?

Nothing beats repetition of a good suggestion... Actually I have a bad habit of not reading the entire post before I answer.

Most likely because 5w-30 is a better grade (thicker) than 0w-20 and because the recommended drain intervals are 5k miles or less. A good grade 5w-30 should be ok, but, yeah, I'd go with the synth.

Sounds like a pulley bearing going bad, maybe the tensioner or alternator, actually anything being driven by the belt

Answering a banned member... I don't use a dealer body shop for anything!! The work is always subpar, paint doesn't match, orange peel, dirt in paint, that's always been my experience. Look for a Gold Class/I-Car shop to start with. BodyShopology - Look for the Gold Class ® Logo...

you don't have an aluminum pan, yours is steel.

I did it all the time when my bolt was an allen key until they gave me a new oil pan because of leaks, 28 ft/lbs. Not a big fuss. By the way, that oil cost way more than that bolt did.