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No, it just broke the first time i used it, dealer said weak latch.

2016s had that problem as with mine. It's under warranty.

$750 now for rear brake and rotor replacement...every time I see some one quoting a dealer price for one of these jobs it gets higher and higher, seems like on a monthly basis. I paid less for a set of new tires last year. For comparison, a dealer quoted me $450 for rear brake replacement 2...

I've had a few instances where it stayed in 2nd at a complete stop, don't know why, maybe some kind of software glitch. For the most part it goes to 1st at a dead stop.

Wow, original post is over 9 years old! That 150 point inspection is really a gimmick IMO. I doubt the average dealer mechanic is going to go over the entire list thoroughly these days. I bought a CPO from Toyota and in reality it shouldn't have been one, quite a few things with the appearance...

I guess driving in 20 below is a whole different animal than what I experience down here. Supposed to be 2 above tomorrow night around here, plenty cold enough for me. Maybe a squirt of silicone would solve that valve stem freezing issue.

If you're riding on a good powdery snow like this dude is with no chance of hitting blacktop like you would be driving on the beach, then yeah, I could see the point. If you're riding blacktop eventually then no, totally disagree. Depends what you're driving on I guess. Riding down to 20 psi is...

Mazda actually recommends inflating winter/snow tires 4.5 psi above the inflation values on the placard, it's in the owners manual. I run my all seasons at 36 and my snows at 39. "Use snow tires on all four wheels Do not go faster than 120 km/h (75 mph) while driving with snow tires. Inflate...

Looks exactly like my 2015(.5). You won't get really good mileage in the city. The longer your trip the better mileage. I've managed to get up to 37 mpg on a long highway trip with typical speed 65-70. Tire pressures at 36 psi cold. Looks nice.

Yes, get the battery tested. If it has an issue, any issue, replace it. You're about due anyway. I change mine out every 4 years, testing usually shows loss of it's original power. First rule of thumb whenever diagnosing electrical issues, always start with a good battery.

Additives are cheaper.

You didn't say what year car. If it's over 3 years old, and even if it isn't, the battery would be the first place to start. . Easiest thing you could do would be to replace it.

I saw it on another forum from a Mazda tech a few years back, don't know if it's true or true for the newer models.

Oil Control Valve, replace it. Yours actually doesn't look that bad. Many posts about it on this forum, do a search. 2016~2023: - CX-9 Oil seep on top, corner closest to passenger

Maybe another 1 post wonder?

Common? No. Let's start with your battery...how old is it?

2 thoughts here. Carfax is only reliable if the servicing garage chooses to report any bad incidents about the vehicle, they're not required to. Make sure the "owner" wasn't a rental agency. Those cars rack up a lot of miles...and abuse.

If you go the dealership route, ask for a master tech to look at it.

Maybe a bad VV timing unit?

That is different. Maybe because there' no dipstick? The procedure states 7 liters, but I think they probably mean total fluid amount in the trans for component replacement or major repair.