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On sale for around $105 w/~$15 shipping https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya/mazda/valveoil-control-PE0114420A?q=PE01-14-420A $68.77 + shipping https://www.parts-sale.jp/index.php?route=product/search&search=PE0114420A https://www.parts-sale.jp/MAZDA%20PE01-14-420A?search=PE0114420A

What device/setup are you using to read the codes?

Many pay out of pocket to avoid dealing with diminished value claims too

Side not on Carfax… autobody repairs paid by owner are generally never reported if owner pays for repairs out of pocket

Model years in G1 years area all over the place for US market anyway. In many markets outside of US the ‘15 model year is actually the ‘16 model year US My ‘15 was built in spring of ‘14 and sold that summer. The ‘16 came along sometime in early 2015… can’t remember month ‘16.5 came out in...

I find it convenient draining it directly into the transport container via Fumoto

Correct on rear differential. I’ve always used that piece that hangs down Good thread here https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/cx-5-rear-jack-point-question.123873269/

I use old vehicle rubber floor mats with grippy fingers for the carpet to stay in place… under my Rhino ramps. They never move on garage concrete. I use second gear start on mine to creep up onto my ramps

Hopefully most shops take into account AT fluid thermal expansion for drain and refill replacement fluid volume of a vehicle that just pulled in for service. On any vehicle I’ve done AT volume based replacements I either left vehicle in garage with replacement fluids overnight or in a few...

Do errors show up on every drive with a freshly charged battery? This is an option I use to locate parasitic power draws https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-72-Amp-Hound/dp/B01N0LR29B/ You can pinpoint fuse or relay that is drawing the power in off state

I wish Mazda M-MDS was as easy to obtain, install and run like Toyota Techstream for advanced troubleshooting issues like this. With TS for example you can troubleshoot continuity issues easily within the software for less than $100 for cable and software I don’t know the hardware costs to use...

I’d still do some continuity tests with a meter on the stop light switch.. so many ECUs now in vehicles hard to pinpoint down Looking at ECUs. It is something around braking Just an opinion but may worth an hour of diagnostic time at dealer to see what they say unless you can find an...

Are you seeing any anomalies with the simply brake light switch off the brake pedal? False Positive activations not on pedal or non-fully functioning on-pedal? Unexplained cruise control behavior?

Any signs of rodents? Just trying to rule out something hasn’t been chewing on any wiring

Did any of this show up after a car wash, heavy rain or recent windshield replacement?

Any of the mechanics have a Mazda M-MDS diagnostic tool available to read real time data? Like a few before… I think something is still off with what initial mechanic didn’t with timing. Maybe it was a bad tensioner that is still in the motor that caused the initial slop as well?

It is about an inch of extra ground clearance much… IIRC.. 8.5” versus 7.6” on the ‘17 You can add 1.5” to either with this https://hrgoffroad.com/product/1-5-inch-38mm-lift-kit-for-2012-2016-mazda-cx-5/ https://hrgoffroad.com/product/1-5-inch-38mm-lift-kit-for-2017-2025-mazda-cx-5/

Other than perhaps more pad wear to rear from Electronic Brake Force Distribution still on stock calipers on my ‘15. EBD on many makes causes more wear on the rear pads. I see the same on my Infiniti and Lexus as well and consider it normal these days IMO.

Looks wettest to me around the FIPG at the pan. I’d clean up with brake cleaner and then apply some talcum or baby powder to the general area. That should highlight where it is coming from pretty quickly

I'm usually not in a hurry & wait...not a fan of draping the hose over the rear of the vehicle. 4 year old info https://www.idriveyourcar.com/blog/most-common-side-for-the-fuel-door