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No, that does not look like something a head gasket would do. Looks like a leak coming from something above and dripping down.

If I'm doing a job like that, I'm replacing all the bushings too. Go to partsouq.com, put in your vin, then go to the interactive diagrams for your car and you should see all the part numbers in one of the diagrams for the control arm bushings. From there determine what to get from Rock Auto...

Depends on what they do. Since these cars aren't direct injection, and gasoline is and of itself a very good solvent and has cleaning additives, I've never bothered with any sort of fuel cleaner as I view them as a waste. DI engines are a whole other issue. If they are pulling off the...

Replace the thermostat again? Maybe it's not opening when things are getting hot and it's spiking the pressure? Also use only OEM Mazda parts. Lots of people having reoccurring issues with cheap Chinese parts from parts distributors.

Then bad radiator or bad water pump? There's only so much that will gradually fail like this.

Also, could be a failing water pump.

Your radiator fan is probably going bad if you can crank your heater and get the temps down. Or a bad radiator. Do these engines have electric fans? I wouldn't think it's exhaust in the coolant (although that's cheap to test) since it would probably go very hot very fast.

As an aside, a shop can probably do it for not too much. It's an easy repair for them. Getting the car like this is a problem though.

Build yourself a new lead. Find out what gauge wire that is and get some. Bigger will work but might be harder to work with. Smaller WILL NOT WORK. I would cut off a bit of the end of the harness and take it to compare with wherever you will get some. You can get wire by the foot at Home...

I don't know. Maybe? You'd have to diagnose it. I am really only familiar with the ABS module under the hood where the brake lines go in and out. We had that module go bad due to an internal valve sticking. This didn't produce a code or ABS light, just a very very soft pedal. If you have...

Yeah, the axle is probably not an issue. It'll be the sensor, wiring or ABS control module.

After some digging, there are magnets embedded in the axle that when spun the sensor picks up on. Those reluctor rings like you mentioned are for very early ABS designs. I remember that ring in my old '96 Probe GT. Regardless, all(?) ABS sensors use magnets for sensing.

43-701B is the sensor and it watches the axle through the knuckle. So I'm going to logically say that the CV Axle assembly has lines on it or splines that work with that sensor.

I pulled the relevant section from mine. See attachment. Please get the service manual. You really can't work on modern cars without it. I know it says for 2013 but I think it's the same.

You'll need the service manual for the car. I get mine off from Ebay. The service manual has about 20 pages of steps and diagrams to do this job.

I little searching and to get to that fuse the fuse box needs to come apart and\or come out. Also, it seems that 80Amp fuse generally won't blow before the Power Steering Pump fries itself. I'd pull the harness to the pump, and test the continuity of the fuse to make sure it truly is blown...

Did you find out WHY the fuse blew? Fuses should never blow. If they do, there is another issue somewhere you need to fix first.