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This got fixed. I called my trusted mechanic. He told me to first route an extremely narrow semi-flexible tube down the hatch where the window resides. Then connect the other end to an electrical connector cleaner or something similar which immediately evaporates. Then start going back and forth...

I will open the panel tomorrow and let me do some jiggling, wriggling and whatever was advised above.

9 yrs. had technically 1 problem: leaking tensioner till date. But I change oil every time my system says 40% left with ONLY GF-5. I tighten and check all chassis bolts, lubricate everything with white lithium grease and annually clean and lubricate brake caliper pins.

Does anyone know how to fix this symptom? Power window with auto up/down driver side. When I down, goes down manually or powered. But when trying to bring it back up, ideally even if I let go it should continue going up. What's now happening is: > Slower than usual starts to go up. > Shudders...

[FINAL UPDATE} This time used "Mazda Swag" and got all the parts. The belt and the water pump was easy peachy from bottom but the tensioner was a real bi$$h. I had to go all crazy. I just cut the water pump belt. For those attempting DIY and if tensioner is not in plan - then go for it otherwise...

Hello - I took the car into my trusted mechanic. He said - the belt is relatively fine. For 9 yrs., its in great condition. The problem he said is the tensioner. There's hydraulic fluid inside it and it's leaking and he's finding oil on the belt. He checked and apparently Mazda has had issues...

Very good inputs @Jmaz . I will take a print-out of the points to watch out for and how to slide the of the slot (bolt). I have a very trusted mechanic. Taking it to him. He quoted a much, much reasonable price and he allows me to bring my parts, so can buy the tensioner and belts from Med...

70k miles. Dealer saying belt tensioner and belt needs replacing. Quoted $640. Seems very high. How to double check? I am used to flipping water pump and water pump belt when doing this job in my earlier car. Worth doing the same or just do the belt+tensioner+water pump belt only?

I already posted it

I remember there used to somewhere how much fluid per service. My apologies can't find it. Does anyone know much much fluid for front differential and how much for rear differential - I need to put? I have the OEM Mazda oil and plan to do it along with transmission next week. I know transmission...

Found it. Car went into something called “limp mode”. In almost all Japanese cars all sensors and specific to brakes, traction get disabled.

Yeah that’s the surprising part. No idea how related

Premium and not their value line.

Amazon reviews are not that good and I believe in Mazda documentation its written somewhere NOT to use throttle body cleaners specifically. My friend’s CX-3 suffered near failure when post treatment his O2 sensors died within few weeks.

All 4 replaced.

[FINAL UPDATE] Got NDK ones at $21 a pop and flipped the 2 old factory ones with these. Same part # and gap 0.44. Now finally working fine. Drove +10 miles. acceleration: faster Acceleration: smoother Gear changes: quicker and more rapid In cruise speed: much better feel Fuel economy...

I posted it - above. https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/2016-cx-5-1st-huge-issue-stuck-on-highway-need-help.123882968/post-6819820 [UPDATE]: Based on code, I flipped bank #2 SP with what was from factory. Car ran for 1000 ft and started shuddering again. Pulled code and found now Bank #1 misfiring...

Got the codes - used BlueDriver. As per them everything seem to related to this 1 code. My question is which one is bank #2 - when I have opened the hood and looking into the engine. Is passenger side #1 or #4? Scan Report Mar 30, 2025 8:43 AM 2016 MAZDA CX-5 2.5L L4 Odometer: 70,411 miles...

What should be the gap?

Battery is 6 weeks old. Its fine with battery. Terminals are in great condition.