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Sounds ALOT high. A few months ago I saw Mazda dealer online price of ~ $27 each for plugs for my 2014 NA (non-turbo). I ended up paying ~$13 each plus shipping for same plug from ngk.com. Total cost was ~$66 and my labor for an easy job.

The time to change it would be NOW especially if it's never been changed. May not want to postpone it and allow water to pit the bearings while waiting for the next service. JMO

To me, a coolant change IS a drain and fill (2X) versus a flush that uses a machine to force coolant through the engine under pressure. I've done the drain and fill (2X) twice now in a 10 year period. At 6 years the factory fill was absolutely clean and was replaced with Zerex Asian premix. Four...

Forgive me for being a little "dense" but how does this pertain to the OP's problem. I'm not aware of SCBS even being available in 2014 year models.

Rockauto shows KYB GR2/Excel G with the cast aluminum upper mount included. I also remember reading that KYB is OEM for Mazda struts/shocks. The Rockauto description mentions them being made on the same OE assembly lines with same materials.

Sounds like you got it all together and that's great. Now I'd like to add a few things. 1) I re-read what I posted and decided to more fully explain that after doing the wiring in that manner, so as to not mislead you --- I never got the chance to try it out with a trailer. The 2 instances I was...

When installing a Curt hitch on my 2014, I just removed the muffler to make it easier on myself for better access. Also , I supported the hitch on my floor jack thus making it easier to position since it was a one man job. For wiring, instead of running a wire all the way up to battery or fuse...

Agreed, but didn't want the oil contaminated with any more gasoline since due to my type of driving it would have taken another 5 months to get to 5,000 miles. That would have been a lot of rich running cold starts and short hops to work just 2 miles away. Can't imagine what the fuel dilution...

I changed mine out at 2,000 miles. The oil was nasty looking, watery thin and reeked of gasoline. No way was I going to run it for the 5,000 (?) miles suggested by Mazda. That goes along with 2 other "suggestions" that I (and many others) ignored were: > "lifetime" transmission fluid > first...

Maybe a combination of using a stubby/low profile socket with breaker bar and bending the heat shield a little bit would work. There may be enough clearance between the heat shield and fuel tank.

There is a transmission breather hose. Item # 21-5C4. Hopefully the water didn't get above this level. With water being heavier than oil, loosening the drain plug enough to wiggle (last 1 or 2 threads) to let some fluid out should indicate water or not. This diagram shows for W/O turbo, not sure...

After 7 or 8 years of that noisy 0W-20 I went to 5W-30. Dealer serviced with synthetic 0W-20 the first 6 years. Tried Castrol Edge 0W-20 twice. Seemed to get dark and get thinner quicker. Tried different Castrol's through the years and never quite liked enough to continue. Car likes 5W -30...

I don't know what your experience is with other vehicles but expecting "super cold" before 1-2 minutes of driving is overly optimistic. Especially if the car has sat in the sun and the cold air has to cool down hot ductwork on the way to the vents. My 2014 still cools about the same with the...

Sounds like you're pretty much on top of things. Keep us posted here. Good luck!

Yea, that sounds good. At least the throttle body cleaning isn't too difficult. Just a note here about that. I replaced the throttle body gasket when I cleaned mine. The OEM Mazda was priced around $20. A Beck-Arnley brand I bought online cost $3-$4 plus shipping. It was identical, even made in...

If it were me, I'd hold off on the dealer induction service. It's liable to be a can of some cleaner fed into the intake manifold for the princely sum of ~$200 as you mentioned. Money better spent on walnut blast /manual cleaning if that really is needed yet. I'd run fuel system cleaner and some...

I'd still crawl under to see how they "fixed" it. They botched it the first time so what says they did a proper (as possible) repair. Peace of mind is worth something. Another thing. It doesn't hurt to be a little assertive if need be to have a repair facility show you something out in the shop...

To me, the10 year/120K miles is too long. So at 6 yr/44K I drained 1 gallon, added1 gallon and drove around to mix. Drained out and replaced1 gallon. Exactly 2 gallons used each time including topping off the overflow bottle. Used the Zerex Asian formula premix. Did the same a few months ago at...

OK. As I mentioned above, I have no experience with the EPB so then I misunderstood. But the piston just gets pushed in then and not even rotated like the manual brake caliper?